Northamerican Alied Fruit Experimenters

Northamerican Alied Fruit Experimenters
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Saturday, May 21, 2016

Re: [nafex] Advice on disease resistant apples for Charlotte NC


I pretty much agree with what others have already said, but have added my two cents below [in brackets]. I've been growing fruit in N. Georgia and Piedmont North Carolina (RDU area) since 1979. To the very nice list below, I would add:

Enterprise, which has done very well from a tree health perspective and is quite vigorous. However, it is not the best apple for fresh eating. Texture is a little dense and not as crisp as some of those below, and taste is good, but not great, in my opinion. However, it ripens about when Goldrush does and is a good all-purpose apple.

Honeycrisp- Yes, Honeycrisp. It is not recommended in our area, but the problem appears to be it's poor calcium transport capability. If you are willing to foliar feed the young, developing fruit with chelated calcium, then you will get crisp apples with a well-balanced flavor profile that may even be superior to the best Honeycrisps grown in its native Minnesota (please no flames from MN- you grow great Honeycrisps, it's just we can do it too, with some extra care).

NY 75414-1:  I don't know if Cornell will ever release this one, but you can get it from Raintree Nursery.  It overlaps in ripening with Liberty and has had very little disease of any kind.  Like Liberty, its quality suffers if you get a heat wave when it's ripening.  Otherwise a very good flavored and textured apple.

MAIA has some numbered selections that I've trialed that do very well here and have some great flavor and texture profiles, but you'd have to talk to MAIA about getting scionwood. I sent them a detailed report on the performance of their selections here, but never heard a peep back.

Heirlooms have generally done poorly here for me. 'Joseph' looked promising for a while, but as the years passed, seems to underperform on average. Ribston Pippins were great tasting, but I got tired of the severe fireblight and removed them.

I have an unnamed family heirloom that is very healthy, precocious and good tasting, but it is not crisp, so I doubt that I will ever release it.

It's really too bad that we don't have an apple breeding program for the Southeastern U.S.  Maybe we should start one  ;)

Anton

-----Original Message-----
>From: Richard Moyer
>Sent: May 1, 2016 11:04 PM
>To: nafex
>Subject: Re: [nafex] Advice on disease resistant apples for Charlotte NC
>
>Fluff,
>Been growing the apples on your list since 1992. In Bristol, TN, about 150
>miles NW of Charlotte.
>
>Williams Pride---Definite. Very cold hardy bloom, great limb angles, but a
>tree with upright habit so can get very large. Apples good size and flavor
>for being so early. This and Liberty the most reliable year after year,
>despite variable spring freezes. [totally agree]
>
>Dayton---Have topworked most of that tree, because flavor was so poor. I
>recall Ed Fackler wondering aloud if this one should have been named and
>released, at least for him in IN. [The first year mine fruited, it was inedible. After that, the flavor improved considerably. I would now consider planting more. Just don't be surprised if the first crop or two is of very poor flavor, as Richard says.]
>
>Liberty---Along with Williams Pride, never misses. If you pick them on the
>green side, will keep for months and flavor up nicely. Barbara, have you
>tried this with Liberty? Also, the natural form of the tree, more
>spreading, makes it a great climbing tree; one that can easily be pruned,
>thinned and picked from the tree instead of a ladder, if rootstock robust
>enough. Stem is so short it often pushes fruit off when ripening, so a lot
>of drop on this one if left too long. [The short stem and the high productivity makes thinning a bit more difficult than many other cultivars, but maybe because that's because I hand thin (insane, but it works). This is one of my favorite cultivars, including for flavor, but some years it misses quality metrics badly. If you get a heat wave when they are ripening, flavor and texture suffer considerably. Despite this problem in maybe two years out of 20+ so far, most years this one is an excellent apple, even in our semi-tropical climate.]
>
>Goldrush---Jules Janick recommended it as his favorite. Routinely keeps
>until Apr. or May for us, flavor and texture my wife's favorite. Least
>vigorous tree on the list. Very susceptible to Cedar Apple Rust so will
>need to commit to spraying for that, to prevent early defoliation and
>subsequent loss of flavor. [100% agree. A fantastic apple, if only it would resist CAR.]
>
>Two others that have done well for us are:
>---Pristine, ripens with Williams Pride. Canary yellow with good tart
>flavor, firm. Apple maggot preferred this one over all others, but were
>able to control with sticky traps. [just planted my first Pristine- no experience]
>
>---Kidd's Orange is same season as Liberty. Very dense flesh, great
>flavor, excellent keeper for a summer apple, we've eaten it into January.
>Have heard it's the best of the Cox's Orange Pippen family for Carolinas
>and Georgia; scionwood gifted to me when moving to TN, with the insistence
>that it deserves to be more widely grown, at least in our region. I could
>make the case for growing this in place of Liberty or Goldrush, though it's
>an August apple instead of October as for Goldrush. Have also grafted
>Kidd's Orange trees for my farm. One of the few that made the move with us. [haven't tried this one, though I might now, based on Richard's comments]
>
>All the above save Goldrush with CAR, have been quite resistant to
>fireblight, summer rots, CAR, scab, etc. [agree]
>
>I have a MonArk tree that keeps getting nailed by spring freezes. Maybe
>will get to taste some this year? On the testimony of Lucky and others, am
>topworking some seedling trees on my farm with MonArk.
>
>Richard Moyer
>SW VA
>Thankful here for inches and days of rain breaking our spring drought.
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Re: [nafex] rooting from storage callus

On 5/21/2016 12:12 AM, fuwa fuwa usagi wrote:
> It depends a great, great deal on the variety. Milam roots easily from cuttings.
>
> Some rootstocks also root very easily. M27 for example. The rootstock itself will root where it touches the ground and along the length of the stem is you bury it. And callous pieces root about as well as black currant cuttings.
>
> If you are going to do this, I would consider watering with willow water. Not sure if it a bunch of woo, but it seems to work miracles for me. But then I am a statistical singleton.
>
> Regards...
>
> tfb
>
>
> As I do my grafting I notice that some of the scionwood has formed a
> nice ring of callus tissue at the bottom. If I were to pot these for
> rooting, would they grow? If so, how many growing seasons until they
> make trees suitable for planting out?
The fluffy one is right. Please permit me to add my $.02 worth.

You didn't say the species of your wood which makes a huge difference.
But the observation that I'd like to throw in is if you're scion wood
calloused you may be storing it too warm. Also forming callus takes
energy out of the scion wood and in all likelihood will reduce the
amount of successes you will have grafting it. Store your scion wood as
close to 32 as you can get your storage unit, I suspect your
refrigerator is set at about 45°, which is too warm. Just checked the
temperature gauge in my refrigerator a few days back and it said 28° .
The water jugs I keep in there to reduce the cycle times was not frozen,
however frost does often form in my bags of scion wood and I've not seen
any indication that it hurts the scions.

Jerry Lehman
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Friday, May 20, 2016

Re: [nafex] rooting from storage callus

It depends a great, great deal on the variety. Milam roots easily from cuttings.

Some rootstocks also root very easily. M27 for example. The rootstock itself will root where it touches the ground and along the length of the stem is you bury it. And callous pieces root about as well as black currant cuttings.

If you are going to do this, I would consider watering with willow water. Not sure if it a bunch of woo, but it seems to work miracles for me. But then I am a statistical singleton.

Regards...

tfb


--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 5/20/16, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 20 May 2016 20:35:58 +0000 (UTC)
From: tanis grif <tanisgrif@yahoo.com>
To: Mailing List at Ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit
Experimenters
    <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [nafex] rooting from storage callus
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    <1798590440.13321.1463776558672.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

As I do my grafting I notice that some of the scionwood has
formed a nice ring of callus tissue at the bottom.  If
I were to pot these for rooting, would they grow?  If
so, how many growing seasons until they make trees suitable
for planting out? 


------------------------------

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Re: [nafex] rooting from storage callus

I have had this happen apples, they root but take more than 5 years before any size. I potted mine for two years in a bed,
then planted out

Paul St. John  Zone 5b  N IL 

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 5/20/16, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 20 May 2016 20:35:58 +0000 (UTC)
From: tanis grif <tanisgrif@yahoo.com>
To: Mailing List at Ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit
Experimenters
    <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [nafex] rooting from storage callus
Message-ID:
    <1798590440.13321.1463776558672.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

As I do my grafting I notice that some of the scionwood has
formed a nice ring of callus tissue at the bottom.  If
I were to pot these for rooting, would they grow?  If
so, how many growing seasons until they make trees suitable
for planting out? 


------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

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[nafex] rooting from storage callus

As I do my grafting I notice that some of the scionwood has formed a nice ring of callus tissue at the bottom. If I were to pot these for rooting, would they grow? If so, how many growing seasons until they make trees suitable for planting out?
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Tuesday, May 17, 2016

[nafex] My poor young quince

I have never tried growing Cydonia oblonga before as we have severe fire
blight here. However, a site opened up with good ventilation and first
AM sun. I love the fruit so I bought a tree. It arrived in our warm
early spring, I was able to protect it from the late freezes. It was
vigorous and put out at least 10 inches of new growth with healthy leaves.

Now, although it has escaped fire blight, it is suffering extensively
from rust. The apical meristem is brown and necrotic, each leaf is at
least somewhat deformed and every petiole is swelling with future
fruiting bodies. One petiole has already started releasing spores.

I feel like I have staked a goat out in a tiger infested jungle.

So, does anyone have experience with this? Is this young tree destined
to die a long, protracted death, or can it survive this severe rust
infection? I would rather rip the quince out if it is a hopeless cause
for survival. This IS a bad rust year, my apples are suffering too - not
every year is so bad....


Betsy Hilborn
7a Central NC


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Monday, May 16, 2016

[nafex] English walnuts

Sam - thanks for asking. I am in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia (between Lexington and Staunton), zone 6.
Paul


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 16 May 2016 20:32:43 +0000
From: Sam Brungardt <sam739is@hotmail.com<mailto:sam739is@hotmail.com>>
To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
<nafex@lists.ibiblio.org<mailto:nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>>
Subject: Re: [nafex] English Walnuts not doing so well
Message-ID:
<CY1PR15MB031609B5A8788D4512B89CAE97770@CY1PR15MB0316.namprd15.prod.outlook.com<mailto:CY1PR15MB031609B5A8788D4512B89CAE97770@cy1pr15mb0316.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Paul, where are the trees growing (city and state)?

________________________________________
From: nafex <nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org<mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org>> on behalf of Cabe, Paul <CabeP@wlu.edu<mailto:CabeP@wlu.edu>>
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 1:08 PM
To: 'nafex@lists.ibiblio.org<mailto:nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>'
Subject: [nafex] English Walnuts not doing so well

Any advice or ideas appreciated.

We have two English walnut trees, about 80-90 yrs old. When we moved into our house about ten yrs ago, they looked to be in pretty good shape, but are clearly suffering now. Much of the smaller top wood is dead - very little growth from terminal buds, but they are pushing out new buds from lower down on the limbs. They seemed pretty sick last year, too. Both springs have been perhaps a little cooler and wetter than normal, and we see a fair amount of leaf disease (fungal?) later in the season, though new growth right now looks good, just rather sparse. In addition to the small limbs and twigs appearing dead, there are a few larger limbs dead on both

We had work done on them two summers ago, in response to significant limb damage from a late spring heavy snow storm. They removed some of the top wood and dead wood, and fertilized (a product injected into the soil).

We did have a fairly late freeze this year, but this is something we have lived through before, and the current pattern of foliage growth just looks different

I also see mushrooms / fungal growth at some of the broken or cut limb spots during the year.

Thanks,
Paul
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