Northamerican Alied Fruit Experimenters

Northamerican Alied Fruit Experimenters
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Thursday, April 30, 2015

Re: [nafex] Anyone know where to buy small quantities of B.118 (aka. Bud.118) apple rootstock? Looking for 1 or 2 sticks.

Burnt Ridge Nursery appears to have Bud 118 rootstock.

-----Original Message-----
From: Andre Pierre
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2015 6:06 PM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: Re: [nafex] Anyone know where to buy small quantities of B.118
(aka. Bud.118) apple rootstock? Looking for 1 or 2 sticks.

Hi Elizabeth,

Thanks for the pointer.

They were my first go to, but unfortunately they're out of stock this year.

The other nurseries I've found seem to be geared towards larger growers.

I'll keep looking.

Thanks again for your help.

:-)

Andre


On Sat, Apr 25, 2015 at 01:49:48PM -0400, Elizabeth Hilborn wrote:
> Cummins Nursery appears to stock it:
> http://www.cumminsnursery.com/rootstocks.htm
>
> On 4/24/2015 10:43 AM, Andre Pierre wrote:
> >Thanks in advance for info.
> >
> >:-)
> >
> >Andre Pierre
>
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--
"First they ignore you. Then they ridicule you. Then they fight you. Then
you win." - Mahatma Gandhi
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Wednesday, April 29, 2015

[nafex] Planting and Aftercare of New Trees - Fruit-Production-for-the-Home-42515.pdf | Producing Fruit for the Home, Ron Perry, Professor, Horticulture Department, MSU

Producing Fruit for the Home
Ron Perry, Professor
Horticulture Department, MSU
Planting and Aftercare of New Trees -
Fruit-Production-for-the-Home-42515.pdf
http://www.hrt.msu.edu/assets/PagePDFs/ronald-perry/Fruit-Production-for-the-Home-42515.pdf

*5. Home Fruit Production*
<http://www.hrt.msu.edu/assets/PagePDFs/ronald-perry/Fruit-Production-for-the-Home-42515.pdf>

Fruit Production for the Home

(Presented to MIDFex, Chicago Bot Grdns 4_26_15)

http://www.hrt.msu.edu/assets/PagePDFs/ronald-perry/Fruit-Production-for-the-Home-42515.pdf

<>

http://www.hrt.msu.edu/ronald-perry/pg3

Extension — Dr. Ronald Perry , Professor

Technical Resource for workshops and field meetings for: tree fruit
rootstocks, apple high density management systems, field diagnostics,
nursery and propagation work, pruning and training techniques, soil
problems and HD Tart Cherry for Over-The-Row harvest work.
http://www.hrt.msu.edu/ronald-perry/pg3

Videos and Presentations for Growers and Students:

*1. Planting and Orchard Establishment*

-

The Benefits of Trunk Mounding in Honeycrisp Production (NW Orchard and
Vineyard Show; Jan 26, 2012; Traverse City, MI)
- Presentation (Video - 32 min)

<http://www.hrt.msu.edu/assets/uploads/videos/perry/mounding/mounding.html>
- Presentation Slides (.pdf)


-

Spacing Calculator for Establishing Apple Trees


-

Planting Guidelines for Orchards - 2012


-

Planting Power Point - 2012


-

Planting Video - 2011 (Video - 3 min)
-

Orchard Establishment - 2013

*2. Rootstocks for Tree Fruit in Michigan*

-

Tree Fruit Rootstocks in Michigan - 2012
-

Rootstocks for Honeycrisp by Perry and Lang, 2010 IFTA Conf. Grand
Rapids, MI

*3. Orchard and Vineyard Sites and Soils*

-

Orchard Soils and Managing Physical Limitations - 1998
-

Orchard Soil Limitations - 1984
-

Vineyard Mapping for Michigan - 2012

*4. Training and Pruning Systems for Orchards*

-

Pruning Concepts; Apple (Michigan Apple Committee March 2009 Webinar)
-

Tall Spindle Apple Pruning and Training - 2013 (Video - 13 min)


-

Tall Spindle Apple Training and Pruning - 2012


-

Vertical Axe Training and Pruning Video R. Perry - 2007 (Video - 38 min)


-

Pruning Stone Fruit


-

Fastening Tree Trunks in High Density Systems Directly to Wires - 2009
Great Lakes Fruit Workers Meeting, Holland, MI.

*5. Home Fruit Production*

Fruit Production for the Home (Presented to MIDFex, Chicago Bot Grdns
4_26_15)

*5. Micro-Irrigation for Orchards and Vineyards in Michigan*

-

Micro-irrigation in Orchards
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Monday, April 27, 2015

Re: [nafex] Want Pawpaw seeds?

Dr. Pittman,

Thank you for the advice about the seeds. I may hang on to mine, then.

Barbara R.
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Saturday, April 25, 2015

Re: [nafex] Anyone know where to buy small quantities of B.118 (aka. Bud.118)...

Fedco Trees has had them; though this is late it would be worth a question to them.

Hank Parker
Real men eat their quiche
with pure NH maple syrup



> On Apr 25, 2015, at 9:51 PM, Dan Ester via nafex <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:
>
> Andre. Check out Raintree. http://www.raintreenursery.com/Rootstocks/
>
>
> In a message dated 4/25/2015 4:59:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> hello@protocol6.com writes:
>
> Hi Elizabeth,
>
> Thanks for the pointer.
>
> They were my first go to, but unfortunately they're out of stock this year.
>
> The other nurseries I've found seem to be geared towards larger growers.
>
> I'll keep looking.
>
> Thanks again for your help.
>
> :-)
>
> Andre
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 25, 2015 at 01:49:48PM -0400, Elizabeth Hilborn wrote:
>> Cummins Nursery appears to stock it:
>> http://www.cumminsnursery.com/rootstocks.htm
>>
>> On 4/24/2015 10:43 AM, Andre Pierre wrote:
>>> Thanks in advance for info.
>>>
>>> :-)
>>>
>>> Andre Pierre
>>
>> __________________
>> nafex mailing list
>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
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>> http://groups.google.com/group/permaculturelist
>> http://groups.google.com/group/nafexlist
>> https://sites.google.com/site/nafexmailinglist
>> Avant Geared http://sites.google.com/site/avantgeared
>>
>
> --
> "First they ignore you. Then they ridicule you. Then they fight you. Then
> you win." - Mahatma Gandhi
> __________________
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Re: [nafex] Anyone know where to buy small quantities of B.118 (aka. Bud.118)...

Andre. Check out Raintree. http://www.raintreenursery.com/Rootstocks/


In a message dated 4/25/2015 4:59:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
hello@protocol6.com writes:

Hi Elizabeth,

Thanks for the pointer.

They were my first go to, but unfortunately they're out of stock this year.

The other nurseries I've found seem to be geared towards larger growers.

I'll keep looking.

Thanks again for your help.

:-)

Andre


On Sat, Apr 25, 2015 at 01:49:48PM -0400, Elizabeth Hilborn wrote:
> Cummins Nursery appears to stock it:
> http://www.cumminsnursery.com/rootstocks.htm
>
> On 4/24/2015 10:43 AM, Andre Pierre wrote:
> >Thanks in advance for info.
> >
> >:-)
> >
> >Andre Pierre
>
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
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>

--
"First they ignore you. Then they ridicule you. Then they fight you. Then
you win." - Mahatma Gandhi
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Re: [nafex] Anyone know where to buy small quantities of B.118 (aka. Bud.118) apple rootstock? Looking for 1 or 2 sticks.

Hi Elizabeth,

Thanks for the pointer.

They were my first go to, but unfortunately they're out of stock this year.

The other nurseries I've found seem to be geared towards larger growers.

I'll keep looking.

Thanks again for your help.

:-)

Andre


On Sat, Apr 25, 2015 at 01:49:48PM -0400, Elizabeth Hilborn wrote:
> Cummins Nursery appears to stock it:
> http://www.cumminsnursery.com/rootstocks.htm
>
> On 4/24/2015 10:43 AM, Andre Pierre wrote:
> >Thanks in advance for info.
> >
> >:-)
> >
> >Andre Pierre
>
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
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>

--
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Re: [nafex] Anyone know where to buy small quantities of B.118 (aka. Bud.118) apple rootstock? Looking for 1 or 2 sticks.

Cummins Nursery appears to stock it:
http://www.cumminsnursery.com/rootstocks.htm

On 4/24/2015 10:43 AM, Andre Pierre wrote:
> Thanks in advance for info.
>
> :-)
>
> Andre Pierre
>

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Friday, April 24, 2015

[nafex] Anyone know where to buy small quantities of B.118 (aka. Bud.118) apple rootstock? Looking for 1 or 2 sticks.

Thanks in advance for info.

:-)

Andre Pierre

--
"Science is not meant to cure us mystery, but to reinvent and to reinvigorate it" - Robert Sapolsky
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Re: [nafex] Cornus mas grafting

Hi Devin,grafting cornus mas I had nearly total yieldwith Chip-Budding in summer. The grafting in the late winter or spring isattended with troubles because the scion buds awake early. To keep the scionbuds dormant you should cut the scion wood enough early and store it wrapped inlight moist paper and put in a bag at about 23 degree F or -5 Degree C. Wishing luck and joyAlex

Von: Devin Smith via nafex <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
An: Mailing List at Ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
CC: Devin Smith <dvidedevo@yahoo.com>
Gesendet: 3:12 Freitag, 24.April 2015
Betreff: [nafex] Cornus mas grafting

| I was given some scions of Cornelian Cherry varieties 'elegant' and 'pioneer'. I was hoping to graft them, but my scion source says dormant grafts never work for him, though summer budding is highly reliable. Have any of you had success dormant grafting this species, and if so, what pointers do you have?Thanks |


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Thursday, April 23, 2015

[nafex] Cornus mas grafting

I was given some scions of Cornelian Cherry varieties 'elegant' and 'pioneer'. I was hoping to graft them, but my scion source says dormant grafts never work for him, though summer budding is highly reliable. Have any of you had success dormant grafting this species, and if so, what pointers do you have?
Thanks

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Re: [nafex] permaculture in viticulture

I have several sets of grapes on high wire, red currants beneath (not
trained to espalier tho) and then surrounded by daffodils and yuccas.. The
grapes are 5' or higher, so it works well.

On Tue, Apr 21, 2015 at 8:02 AM, Devin Smith via nafex <
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:

> I have my grapes trained to a two arm spur system and planted on 8 ft.
> centers. The grapes are planted between the posts, and at every grape and
> every post I am training a red currant up to be espaliered at about 5 ft.
> Underneath I have black currants spaced every 4 ft. but staggered. My
> ground-cover layer is wild strawberry. Not a large-scale system by any
> means- I have 9 grapes.
>
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Re: [nafex] [permaculture] Permaculture in viticulture?

I'm not commercial and am dubious this would work if you are dealing with any large number of grape vines for exactly the reason you say.

Permaculture Stacking has its main advantage as a way to get more than one use out of the same space. It is just one technique. If it increased labor significantly, that would trade off against the multiple use goal. Vertical stacking (and in this case temporal stacking) makes use of the fact that grapes and blackberries on the Gulf Coast have different fruiting times (May and August), different light needs, and can be fruited at different heights.

I put them at a height I can maintain on a very sturdy wide stepped "step stool". I am 5'9". I think that part would work no matter what one's height.

It turns out I don't have any really good photos. The attached is the best I could find.

You probably could get a better idea of this in the online video about my urban activity.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFDuM2P1E-Q&sns=em


Bob


"Share What You Grow and What You Know!"

Bob Randall, Ph.D.








> On Apr 20, 2015, at 9:57 AM, Road's End Farm <organic87@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
> I'm curious. Is all the work on the grapes done by machinery? If not, isn't making nearly everything done by hand into ladder work a significant disadvantage?
>
> -- Rivka; not much over 5' tall
> Finger Lakes NY, Zone 6A now I think
> Fresh-market organic produce, small scale
>
>
> On Apr 20, 2015, at 10:46 AM, Bob Randall wrote:
>
>> I have had excellent results in southeast Texas stacking grapes—both muscadines and Euro-American hybrid bunch grapes on 8-10 ft trellis wires
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [nafex] Question about crabapple trees top-worked with domestic apples.

Hi all and happy Spring!

A follow-up question about top-working crabapples....

---

So I've done my top-working of a nice mature crabapple tree in a sunny location via rind grafts.
The 3 (out of 6) branches I worked on had suffered snow damage so replacing them was necessary anyway, and I'm looking forward so see what will happen with the grafts.
I left 3 other branches as sap-drawers. These are 2-3" in diameter and quite long.

Here is my question:

I have s few small pieces of scionwood left, too short for rind or cleft grafting, but I thought perhaps I could bud-graft a few scion buds onto the sap-drawer branches, just to see what will happen.

I know that budding is usually done in the summer, but is it reasonable to expect that a bud graft is likely to work in the early season?

I figure worst case the scion-buds don't grow.

Any thoughts, opinions or comments welcome.

Thanks in advance,

:-)

Andre



On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 04:24:22PM -0400, Andre Pierre wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm thinking about top-working a mature crabapple tree in my backyard with two or three domestic apple varieties.
>
> I have never done this, but have a good idea how to proceed.
>
> One thing I'd be curious to know is how long its likely to take until the new apple branches bear fruit (assuming the cleft grafts take, of course)
>
> Any observations or comments would be be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance, and best regards.
>
> :-)
>
> Andre
>
> --
> "The perfect is the enemy of the good." - Voltair

--
"Man did not weave the web of life, he is merely a strand in it. Whatever he does to the web, he does to himself." - Chief Seattle
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Re: [nafex] permaculture in viticulture

I have my grapes trained to a two arm spur system and planted on 8 ft. centers. The grapes are planted between the posts, and at every grape and every post I am training a red currant up to be espaliered at about 5 ft. Underneath I have black currants spaced every 4 ft. but staggered. My ground-cover layer is wild strawberry. Not a large-scale system by any means- I have 9 grapes.

Monday, April 20, 2015

Re: [nafex] kiwi grafting

I spoke with a friend and veteran grafter of difficult genera about grafting kiwis recently. He suggested that the excessive bleeding is probably related to the large hollow pith, and recommended side veneer grafting as a good workaround. I'm not sure I agree with his assessment (it seems to me that the sap would be carried by the xylem, so I can't see how the pith could be at all related), but I can see that the pith might tend to cause its own problems. I did try a few side veneer grafts this morning and they didn't seem to bleed much. I also pruned several shoots near the graft site that were lower and closer to the roots to help relieve some of the sap pressure on the graft union. All together, it does seem to have helped a lot with the bleeding.
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Re: [nafex] [permaculture] Permaculture in viticulture?

I'm curious. Is all the work on the grapes done by machinery? If not, isn't making nearly everything done by hand into ladder work a significant disadvantage?

-- Rivka; not much over 5' tall
Finger Lakes NY, Zone 6A now I think
Fresh-market organic produce, small scale


On Apr 20, 2015, at 10:46 AM, Bob Randall wrote:

> I have had excellent results in southeast Texas stacking grapes—both muscadines and Euro-American hybrid bunch grapes on 8-10 ft trellis wires







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Re: [nafex] storing scions the rabbit way

Good morning Fluffy one,

That seems like a lot of work especially if you're going to store scion
material several months. I don't believe your problem was the
temperature fluctuation as much as fluctuating as high as 52°. That
simply is too warm especially if you're storing Prunus for a few months
and other species for much longer.

Refrigerators that have their freezer compartment on top typically do
the condensing in the top and have an opening in the rear bottom of the
freezer compartment in which cold air slowly filters to the bottom
keeping it cool. To lower the temperature in the refrigerator section
the adjustment merely increases the size of the opening. What I did was
took one of those refrigerators and set the thermostat to the coldest
setting to see what the temperature was in the frigerator section. I
then physically cut away part of the opening increasing the size so that
more cold air would flow to the bottom. I then watched the temperature
to see what the minimum was and kept increasing the size of the opening
until the fluctuation was from about 32° F to the point where the
thermostat would kick the compressor back on which was about 38°. So the
temperature fluctuates between 32 to 38° with the very bottom remaining
near the 32° point. Similar to what you did, I placed a couple of jugs
of water on the bottom shelf of the door to help stabilize, reduce the
fluctuation time, the temperature. The upper freezer compartment now
typically sets about 10°F which is plenty cold enough to store frozen
pollen extended periods. In fact I stored some frozen actively growing
persimmon tips for DNA work and the DNA was still active after a year
storage.

Jerry

On 4/18/2015 9:45 PM, fuwa fuwa usagi wrote:
> The fluffy one stores scions:
>
> Gang, I thought I would share my new scion storing system.
>
> I have been very dissatisfied with attempts to use a refrigerator to store scion wood. In fact last year I acquired a small dedicated refrigerator for storing scionwood alone. Unfortunately I found out the temperature seemed to fluctuate significantly and tended to average 44-52 degrees. The only way to stabilize the temperature was to add bottles of frozen water.
>
> This year I tried a different approach and I am extremely happy with the results. I purchased a standard picnic cooler for my endeavor. Next I set aside 16 20 oz soda bottles and filled them 4/5 of the way with water and frozen them. Once frozen I put five in the bottom of the cooler along with a damp towel and then added my wrapped and sealed scion wood, and then placed 6 bottles on top (the cooler is tapered slightly. I placed some cardboard beneath the cooler and draped two old rag rugs across the top. I then place 5 bottles of water in the freezer. I was amazed by the results. The cooler held the wood at very close to freezing, 29-35 degrees very consistently. My intention was to rotate 5 of the bottles each day, but found unless it was 65-70 plus and I was going in and out the cooler all day, it was unnecessary, and merely rotated 5 bottles every 3 days or so (I did not experiment with going longer, I simply rotated the bottle when then were about 1/5 to 1/4
> liquid). Even while grafting, with the cooler outside, I found all I had to do was rotate 5 of the bottles a day, and sure enough the temperature stayed in the low range. Every 3 days (while grafting) I rotated the bottle bottles, which were almost always 4/5 frozen (as the cold sinks downward. Interestingly it got cold enough that some of the toweling froze stiff.
>
> I found this system beyond satisfactory. It is cooler, more humid, with a far more stable temperature than a refrigerator, plus there was no issues with worrying about what else was in the cooler that might abort the scion wood. In all the years I have kept scion wood, it never looked in better shape.
>
> I intend to improve the system for next year by creating a wrap around cardboard insulator, to increase the R value of the cooler. The rugs work well, but I just wanted something a bit tidier.
>
> tfb
>
> _____________________________________________________________
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Re: [nafex] [permaculture] Permaculture in viticulture?

I have had excellent results in southeast Texas stacking grapes—both muscadines and Euro-American hybrid bunch grapes on 8-10 ft trellis wires, with blackberries staked and topped at 5 feet underneath and sweet potato spinach understorried below the blackberries. The sweet potato ground cover was suggested by Bill Mollison in a conversation in the early nineties and it works well. The grapes here do not get much in the way of leaves until most of the spring blackberry fruiting is done, and the sweet potato spinach dose not need a lot of light.

Sweet potato spinach is a relatively little know sweet potato cultivar with inedible roots that do well in soils that ordinary sweet potatoes do poorly in. It is popular here in Asian communities and like all sweets, is easily reproduced from cuttings.

Bob Randall
Houston

> On Apr 20, 2015, at 9:30 AM, Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Maybe there will be answers from this group.
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Sonia Ghiggioli <sonia@vinetime.com.au>
> Date: Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 6:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [permaculture] Permaculture in viticulture?
> To: permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org
>
>
> cestin <cestin@...> writes:
>
>>
>> Does anyone have any information about permaculture practices in
>> viticulture? I know that many permaculture principles of encouraging
>> biodiversity and soil health make sense. But I'm curious about more
>> extensive applications - are there "guild plantings" that might enhance
>> wine grape quality? Does comfrey have a beneficial effect when planted
>> near grape vines, etc...
>>
>
> Dear Chuck,
>
> did you get any responses back from Australia regarding this topic. I'd love
> to know what
> information you've discovered so I can trial it. Biodiversity and soil
> health are
> very important to me.
>
> Kind regards,
> Sonia
>
> --
> Lawrence F. London
> lfljvenaura@gmail.com
> sites.google.com/site/avantgeared
> plus.google.com/+Avantgeared
> Ello: @ecoponderosa <https://ello.co/ecoponderosa>
> Twitter: @ecoponderosa <https://twitter.com/ecoponderosa>
> Reddit: ecoponderosa
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[nafex] Fwd: [permaculture] Permaculture in viticulture?

Maybe there will be answers from this group.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Sonia Ghiggioli <sonia@vinetime.com.au>
Date: Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: [permaculture] Permaculture in viticulture?
To: permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org


cestin <cestin@...> writes:

>
> Does anyone have any information about permaculture practices in
> viticulture? I know that many permaculture principles of encouraging
> biodiversity and soil health make sense. But I'm curious about more
> extensive applications - are there "guild plantings" that might enhance
> wine grape quality? Does comfrey have a beneficial effect when planted
> near grape vines, etc...
>

Dear Chuck,

did you get any responses back from Australia regarding this topic. I'd love
to know what
information you've discovered so I can trial it. Biodiversity and soil
health are
very important to me.

Kind regards,
Sonia

--
Lawrence F. London
lfljvenaura@gmail.com
sites.google.com/site/avantgeared
plus.google.com/+Avantgeared
Ello: @ecoponderosa <https://ello.co/ecoponderosa>
Twitter: @ecoponderosa <https://twitter.com/ecoponderosa>
Reddit: ecoponderosa
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Sunday, April 19, 2015

Re: [nafex] Grafting - nurse limbs and apical dominance

If I were doing it I would cut them off. My 2nd choice would be to cut
the tips off to reduce the apical dominance affect. I suspect if you
pulled them over horizontally they would send up a lot of "rain shoots"
in the long run reducing the energy to the graft.

Jerry

On 4/19/2015 3:32 PM, Elizabeth Hilborn wrote:
> I am grafting to apple and pear rootstock suckers. The original
> grafted trees are gone. Last year I stripped off growth on the shoots
> arising below the graft, but had no takes. This year, I selected
> suckers with side shoots which I left to use as nurse limbs in the
> hope that increased shoot vigor would give me better results.
>
> Question- some of the nurse limb apices are higher than the apical
> shoot of the graft. I have only found one source that suggests that
> one does not prune the nurse limb until the graft takes. But I am
> afraid that the apical dominance effect of the nurse limb will prevent
> my grafts from taking. My only thought is to 'split the difference' -
> to tie nurse limbs down horizontally.
>
> Does anyone have experience with this issue?
>
> Betsy Hilborn

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Re: [nafex] Grafting - nurse limbs and apical dominance

Thanks folks.

I guess this IS where the art of grafting comes in. It has been
difficult for me to find printed/ posted discussions of how to maximize
the effectiveness of nurse limbs...

Betsy



On 4/19/2015 6:40 PM, fuwa fuwa usagi wrote:
> Betsy,
>
> I just did several multigraft pear and apple trees for folks over the last three days. If I understand what you have written, I might suggest you do what I did which was a combination of nicking and notching along with a partial bark inversion.
>
> I run into this stuff when adding limbs to damaged espaliers and growing replacement limbs.
>
> It is more art than science this point. But it sounds like you want to keep your nurse limbs and simply let them leaf out to feed the tree and that is where the nicking, notching and bark inversions are very useful.
>
> All the best to you.
>
> fluffy
>
>
>
>
> --- lpittman@murraystate.edu wrote:
>
> From: Louis Pittman <lpittman@murraystate.edu>
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [nafex] Grafting - nurse limbs and apical dominance
> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2015 17:18:33 -0500
>
> Betsy,
> After years of fighting with persimmons, I don't want any side branches
> with buds higher than the graft union. I'll usually just break 'em over -
> leaving them attached - at some point so that any buds on the 'sap-drawer'
> are lower than the graft.
>
> YMMV. Apples/pears probably not so ornery as Diospyros...
>
> Lucky
>
> On Sun, Apr 19, 2015 at 2:32 PM, Elizabeth Hilborn <ehilborn@mebtel.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I am grafting to apple and pear rootstock suckers. The original grafted
>> trees are gone. Last year I stripped off growth on the shoots arising below
>> the graft, but had no takes. This year, I selected suckers with side shoots
>> which I left to use as nurse limbs in the hope that increased shoot vigor
>> would give me better results.
>>
>> Question- some of the nurse limb apices are higher than the apical shoot
>> of the graft. I have only found one source that suggests that one does not
>> prune the nurse limb until the graft takes. But I am afraid that the apical
>> dominance effect of the nurse limb will prevent my grafts from taking. My
>> only thought is to 'split the difference' - to tie nurse limbs down
>> horizontally.
>>
>> Does anyone have experience with this issue?
>>
>> Betsy Hilborn
>> 7a NC
>>
>>

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Re: [nafex] Grafting - nurse limbs and apical dominance

Betsy,

I just did several multigraft pear and apple trees for folks over the last three days. If I understand what you have written, I might suggest you do what I did which was a combination of nicking and notching along with a partial bark inversion.

I run into this stuff when adding limbs to damaged espaliers and growing replacement limbs.

It is more art than science this point. But it sounds like you want to keep your nurse limbs and simply let them leaf out to feed the tree and that is where the nicking, notching and bark inversions are very useful.

All the best to you.

fluffy




--- lpittman@murraystate.edu wrote:

From: Louis Pittman <lpittman@murraystate.edu>
To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [nafex] Grafting - nurse limbs and apical dominance
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2015 17:18:33 -0500

Betsy,
After years of fighting with persimmons, I don't want any side branches
with buds higher than the graft union. I'll usually just break 'em over -
leaving them attached - at some point so that any buds on the 'sap-drawer'
are lower than the graft.

YMMV. Apples/pears probably not so ornery as Diospyros...

Lucky

On Sun, Apr 19, 2015 at 2:32 PM, Elizabeth Hilborn <ehilborn@mebtel.net>
wrote:

> I am grafting to apple and pear rootstock suckers. The original grafted
> trees are gone. Last year I stripped off growth on the shoots arising below
> the graft, but had no takes. This year, I selected suckers with side shoots
> which I left to use as nurse limbs in the hope that increased shoot vigor
> would give me better results.
>
> Question- some of the nurse limb apices are higher than the apical shoot
> of the graft. I have only found one source that suggests that one does not
> prune the nurse limb until the graft takes. But I am afraid that the apical
> dominance effect of the nurse limb will prevent my grafts from taking. My
> only thought is to 'split the difference' - to tie nurse limbs down
> horizontally.
>
> Does anyone have experience with this issue?
>
> Betsy Hilborn
> 7a NC
>
> __________________
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Re: [nafex] Grafting - nurse limbs and apical dominance

Betsy,
After years of fighting with persimmons, I don't want any side branches
with buds higher than the graft union. I'll usually just break 'em over -
leaving them attached - at some point so that any buds on the 'sap-drawer'
are lower than the graft.

YMMV. Apples/pears probably not so ornery as Diospyros...

Lucky

On Sun, Apr 19, 2015 at 2:32 PM, Elizabeth Hilborn <ehilborn@mebtel.net>
wrote:

> I am grafting to apple and pear rootstock suckers. The original grafted
> trees are gone. Last year I stripped off growth on the shoots arising below
> the graft, but had no takes. This year, I selected suckers with side shoots
> which I left to use as nurse limbs in the hope that increased shoot vigor
> would give me better results.
>
> Question- some of the nurse limb apices are higher than the apical shoot
> of the graft. I have only found one source that suggests that one does not
> prune the nurse limb until the graft takes. But I am afraid that the apical
> dominance effect of the nurse limb will prevent my grafts from taking. My
> only thought is to 'split the difference' - to tie nurse limbs down
> horizontally.
>
> Does anyone have experience with this issue?
>
> Betsy Hilborn
> 7a NC
>
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[nafex] Grafting - nurse limbs and apical dominance

I am grafting to apple and pear rootstock suckers. The original grafted
trees are gone. Last year I stripped off growth on the shoots arising
below the graft, but had no takes. This year, I selected suckers with
side shoots which I left to use as nurse limbs in the hope that
increased shoot vigor would give me better results.

Question- some of the nurse limb apices are higher than the apical shoot
of the graft. I have only found one source that suggests that one does
not prune the nurse limb until the graft takes. But I am afraid that the
apical dominance effect of the nurse limb will prevent my grafts from
taking. My only thought is to 'split the difference' - to tie nurse
limbs down horizontally.

Does anyone have experience with this issue?

Betsy Hilborn
7a NC

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Re: [nafex] Azera insecticide and pears

I will do so, Rivka. I took some time to document the damage yesterday.

The promised list of pears:
Severely affected (100% leaf death):
Blake's Pride
Potomac
Chapin
US-Michigan 437
Dana Hovey
Maxine
Several Potomac seedlings

Completely resistant:
Belle Angevine
Beurre Superfin
Carrick
Eldorado
Hoskins
Immamura Aki
Koyama
Lucy Duke
Meadows
Meigetsu
Mericourt
Miss Label
Morgan
Old Home X Farmingdale 51
Pyrus calleryana
Spalding
Tenn
Tsu Li
unnamed local pear imported from China in the 1800's
Waite
Warren


Intermediate susceptibility:
Ayers (probably fully susceptible and some of the trees didn't get full coverage)

Anton
Zone 8; North Carolina Piedmont


-----Original Message-----
>From: Road's End Farm <organic87@frontiernet.net>
>Sent: Apr 18, 2015 1:15 PM
>To: Anton Callaway <marillen@earthlink.net>, mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>Subject: Re: [nafex] Azera insecticide and pears
>
>Anton,
>
>Maybe you've already done this, but if not: I'd immediately contact both your local Extension office (and any state agency they refer you to) and the manufacturer of the Azera. I would also take samples, and try to get Extension to do so also. I don't know whether the material sold to you may have been contaminated with something.
>
>Good luck,
>
>
>
>-- Rivka; Finger Lakes NY, Zone 6A now I think
>Fresh-market organic produce, small scale
>
>
>On Apr 18, 2015, at 12:50 PM, Anton Callaway wrote:
>
>> Dear fellow pear growers,
>>
>> I just wanted to warn other readers on this group about Azera insecticide from MGK. It is an OMRI-approved insecticide that's basically a mixture of azadirachtin (the main active ingredient in neem oil) & pyrethrins. I sprayed a mixture of Azera and Serenade at the recommended rates on my orchard on Sunday and by Tuesday, several cultivars of pear with European heritage (P. communis) were completely black. The damage is not fireblight. The symptoms are quite different and it is hitting certain blight-resistant cultivars while blight-susceptible cultivars right next to them are unaffected. I will compile a complete list this weekend, but I wanted to send a note quickly so that others can avoid the damage that I experienced.
>>
>> I think the trees will survive, but I'll get no fruit from them.
>>
>> I've been orcharding in the Southeastern U.S. since 1979 and have never seen anything like it. I've sprayed this same orchard with neem oil and pyrethrins (separately) and neem oil & Serenade together for several years in the past with no ill effects. Other species were not affected at all. I have one tree with 6 cultivars grafted in it. One pure communis cultivar has all of its leaves killed and another communis X pyrifolia cultivar has slight damage while the other 4, including one pure pyrifolia ('Koyama') are completely fine.
>>
>> 'Potomac' and 'Blake's Pride' are severely affected.
>>
>> Anton
>> Zone 8; The North Carolina Piedmont
>>
>


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Re: [nafex] storing scions the rabbit way

A regular full sized fridge, I keep it at 37F or so. I just pulled
out some currant cuttings from spring 2014 that were still in great
shape.

On Sun, Apr 19, 2015 at 12:13 AM, sherwin <sherwindu@att.net> wrote:
> I have been storing scions in a dedicated frig for several years
> with no problems. The frig has to be an older model that does
> not have self defrost. Also, putting a wet paper in with the
> scions is probably counter productive and not necessary if
> you use the right kind of frig.
>
>
> On 4/19/2015 12:06 AM, fuwa fuwa usagi wrote:
>>
>> Interesting. How big is your refrigerator and how cold does it get?
>>
>> The one I was referencing was a mini fridge/dorm refrigerator.
>>
>> Very curious...
>>
>>
>>
>
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Saturday, April 18, 2015

Re: [nafex] storing scions the rabbit way

I have been storing scions in a dedicated frig for several years
with no problems. The frig has to be an older model that does
not have self defrost. Also, putting a wet paper in with the
scions is probably counter productive and not necessary if
you use the right kind of frig.


On 4/19/2015 12:06 AM, fuwa fuwa usagi wrote:
> Interesting. How big is your refrigerator and how cold does it get?
>
> The one I was referencing was a mini fridge/dorm refrigerator.
>
> Very curious...
>
>
>

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Re: [nafex] storing scions the rabbit way

Interesting. How big is your refrigerator and how cold does it get?

The one I was referencing was a mini fridge/dorm refrigerator.

Very curious...


--- qazingulaza@gmail.com wrote:

From: mIEKAL aND <qazingulaza@gmail.com>
To: fuwafuwausagi <fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com>, mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [nafex] storing scions the rabbit way
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2015 22:50:09 -0500

I've been using a dedicated fridge for years and have never had an
issue. I often have cuttings and scionwood left from the previous
year that are still in good shape..

On Sat, Apr 18, 2015 at 8:45 PM, fuwa fuwa usagi
<fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com> wrote:
>
> The fluffy one stores scions:
>
> Gang, I thought I would share my new scion storing system.
>
> I have been very dissatisfied with attempts to use a refrigerator to store scion wood. In fact last year I acquired a small dedicated refrigerator for storing scionwood alone. Unfortunately I found out the temperature seemed to fluctuate significantly and tended to average 44-52 degrees. The only way to stabilize the temperature was to add bottles of frozen water.
>
> This year I tried a different approach and I am extremely happy with the results. I purchased a standard picnic cooler for my endeavor. Next I set aside 16 20 oz soda bottles and filled them 4/5 of the way with water and frozen them. Once frozen I put five in the bottom of the cooler along with a damp towel and then added my wrapped and sealed scion wood, and then placed 6 bottles on top (the cooler is tapered slightly. I placed some cardboard beneath the cooler and draped two old rag rugs across the top. I then place 5 bottles of water in the freezer. I was amazed by the results. The cooler held the wood at very close to freezing, 29-35 degrees very consistently. My intention was to rotate 5 of the bottles each day, but found unless it was 65-70 plus and I was going in and out the cooler all day, it was unnecessary, and merely rotated 5 bottles every 3 days or so (I did not experiment with going longer, I simply rotated the bottle when then were about 1/5 to 1
/4
> liquid). Even while grafting, with the cooler outside, I found all I had to do was rotate 5 of the bottles a day, and sure enough the temperature stayed in the low range. Every 3 days (while grafting) I rotated the bottle bottles, which were almost always 4/5 frozen (as the cold sinks downward. Interestingly it got cold enough that some of the toweling froze stiff.
>
> I found this system beyond satisfactory. It is cooler, more humid, with a far more stable temperature than a refrigerator, plus there was no issues with worrying about what else was in the cooler that might abort the scion wood. In all the years I have kept scion wood, it never looked in better shape.
>
> I intend to improve the system for next year by creating a wrap around cardboard insulator, to increase the R value of the cooler. The rugs work well, but I just wanted something a bit tidier.
>
> tfb
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> The Free Email with so much more!
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Re: [nafex] storing scions the rabbit way

I've been using a dedicated fridge for years and have never had an
issue. I often have cuttings and scionwood left from the previous
year that are still in good shape..

On Sat, Apr 18, 2015 at 8:45 PM, fuwa fuwa usagi
<fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com> wrote:
>
> The fluffy one stores scions:
>
> Gang, I thought I would share my new scion storing system.
>
> I have been very dissatisfied with attempts to use a refrigerator to store scion wood. In fact last year I acquired a small dedicated refrigerator for storing scionwood alone. Unfortunately I found out the temperature seemed to fluctuate significantly and tended to average 44-52 degrees. The only way to stabilize the temperature was to add bottles of frozen water.
>
> This year I tried a different approach and I am extremely happy with the results. I purchased a standard picnic cooler for my endeavor. Next I set aside 16 20 oz soda bottles and filled them 4/5 of the way with water and frozen them. Once frozen I put five in the bottom of the cooler along with a damp towel and then added my wrapped and sealed scion wood, and then placed 6 bottles on top (the cooler is tapered slightly. I placed some cardboard beneath the cooler and draped two old rag rugs across the top. I then place 5 bottles of water in the freezer. I was amazed by the results. The cooler held the wood at very close to freezing, 29-35 degrees very consistently. My intention was to rotate 5 of the bottles each day, but found unless it was 65-70 plus and I was going in and out the cooler all day, it was unnecessary, and merely rotated 5 bottles every 3 days or so (I did not experiment with going longer, I simply rotated the bottle when then were about 1/5 to 1
/4
> liquid). Even while grafting, with the cooler outside, I found all I had to do was rotate 5 of the bottles a day, and sure enough the temperature stayed in the low range. Every 3 days (while grafting) I rotated the bottle bottles, which were almost always 4/5 frozen (as the cold sinks downward. Interestingly it got cold enough that some of the toweling froze stiff.
>
> I found this system beyond satisfactory. It is cooler, more humid, with a far more stable temperature than a refrigerator, plus there was no issues with worrying about what else was in the cooler that might abort the scion wood. In all the years I have kept scion wood, it never looked in better shape.
>
> I intend to improve the system for next year by creating a wrap around cardboard insulator, to increase the R value of the cooler. The rugs work well, but I just wanted something a bit tidier.
>
> tfb
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> The Free Email with so much more!
> =====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
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