Re: [nafex] Fruit trees -- high water table

Just a short comment on Rivka's last paragraph. Wood chips are relatively high in carbon with respect to nitrogen, so will temporarily tie up nitrogen — but only if mixed into the soil. Laid on top of the ground, breakdown is gradual, and at the interface of the mulch and the soil. A dynamic equilibrium then exists where tie up of nitrogen is offset by its slow re-release into the soil. This is not just theory; I've used wood chips as mulch for decades, always with good results, and have talked to others with similar experiences. The same could even be said for sawdust, which I've also occasionally used as mulch.

Lee Reich, PhD
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http://www.leereich.com/blog <http://www.leereich.com/blog>
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> On Jan 7, 2017, at 11:20 AM, Road's End Farm <organic87@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
> If the primary problem is the acidity level, not the drainage, I actually wouldn't be too worked up about that. It's much easier to raise pH than it is to lower it. Lime will need to be applied from time to time, but it's unlikely to be needed every year. Getting it worked through the soil takes time, especially if you're not tilling; but you could probably get some of it worked in while digging planting holes.
>
> Get a good soil test done on the specific site -- that's how you know how much to apply; there is definitely such a thing as too much -- and get another one done about every three years, to check when and whether you need more. For orchards generally you should do a subsoil sample as well as a sample taken nearer the surface. Your county extension office should be able to give you instructions for taking the samples, and may even be able to do the tests.
>
> Check what type of lime you should be applying -- some limes are high in magnesium, for instance, and some soils are already naturally high in it also -- you need a complete soil test, not just one for pH. And check what pH is recommended for the particular species you're planting -- quite a lot of fruits (and for that matter vegetables) either prefer or comfortably tolerate a slightly acidic soil.
>
> Composting will also help; but I wouldn't dump a lot of wood on the site and plant shortly thereafter -- in the process of breaking down the wood will temporarily tie up a lot of nitrogen. If you've got an area you expect to plant in eventually but not for some years, you could spread high-cellulose stuff over there. If you'd be living there and heating with a wood stove, note that wood ash will also raise pH, as well as return some other nutrients to the soil.
>
>
> -- Rivka; Finger Lakes NY, Zone 6A now I think
> Fresh-market organic produce, small scale
>
>
>
>
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