Re: [nafex] Plum Grafting / Budding

I did not see the photos either.

--- list@ginda.us wrote:

From: Ginda Fisher <list@ginda.us>
To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [nafex] Plum Grafting / Budding
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2016 20:16:24 -0400

Very odd. I got no attachment/photo with the original post, but did get a photo with this one.

On Mar 23, 2016, at 10:11 AM, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:

> Jerry -
>
> Yes, the photo came through and is very helpful.
>
> Again, thank you so much for your knowledge and assistance! I am also of
> the opinion that tight wrapping is best, at least with the apples and pears
> with which I have the most practice/experience. In my opinion, my plum
> grafts are wrapped sufficiently tightly; they're just not as tight as I
> would have wrapped an apple or pear, as I was concerned my usual
> super-tight wrapping last year might have been part of the cause of last
> year's plum graft failures ;)
>
> Your explanation of how to properly use parafilm should also be extremely
> helpful for others who may be new to using it. Crazing (the technical term
> for polymer chain alignment during elongation, if I'm correctly remembering
> my schooling) is a necessary ingredient in parafilm's proper use, and is
> one of those things you have to have someone explain or show you!
>
> -Pete
>
>
> Pete Chrisbacher
>
> On Wed, Mar 23, 2016 at 8:24 AM, Jerry Lehman <jwlehmantree@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> On 3/23/2016 7:36 AM, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:
>>
>> Thank you both, gentlemen, for your helpful advice! I've heard
>> anecdotally that grafting plums is possible (and one of the guys at the
>> BYFG grafting meeting told me "ALL my plum grafts took last year! I just
>> did normal grafts!" without providing any helpful details).
>>
>> I grafted three last night (splice) on actively growing 1 YO in-ground
>> rootstock with dime-size leaves. Most of the leaves were high up the
>> leader, so they ended up getting cut off. I'm assuming (hoping) the roots
>> will just continue pushing into the scion now if my grafts are any good. I
>> wrapped tightly but not excessively with a budding rubber, then parafilm,
>> including a single-wrap covering of the lowest scion bud to keep it from
>> drying out (2 buds on each scion). Tree-cote to seal the exposed scion cut.
>>
>> Pete,
>>
>> Thank you Fluffy for your concurrence. Let me add 2 more " by the ways,"
>> and an observation.
>>
>> Storing cherry scion's in a normal refrigeration for any length of time
>> can lead to a problem. 40° to 45° is too warm, it approximates the outdoor
>> temperature when cherry flower buds become active. Likewise they will do
>> that in the refrigerator at those temperatures and will be too active when
>> grafting reducing the success rate. Store cherry scion wood as close to the
>> freezing temperature as you can to keep it fully dormant. My scion storage
>> refrigerator has been modified and it will actually frost in the bottom
>> where the coldest air settles and a little frost will not hurt a fully
>> dormant piece of scion wood. At least I have never detected damage to scion
>> wood that has been lightly frosted. I would not stored in a deep-freeze
>> where the temperature can get down to near 0 because if any activity had
>> begun in the scion wood, the cells filling with water, the cells could
>> burst damaging the wood.
>>
>> I have often grafted using the splice graft or machine graft and pulled
>> the rubber band as tight as I can. You would think it could constrict the
>> activity but certainly in persimmon and pawpaw I've not seen a problem. It
>> will girdle the graft sooner because there is less elasticity left for
>> expansion. As soon as the graft has calloused and begun growth simply cut
>> the rubber band in one or 2 places and there is no need to remove it as now
>> the expanding calloused area is not restricted. Again I cover the entire
>> scion wood starting below the graph point with Parafilm, no need to fool
>> around with wax or anything else. Simply expand (stretch it out
>> approximately double length) the Parafilm start below the graft union keep
>> wrapping all the way up and pitch it off above the scion or continue back
>> down until you run out of Parafilm. Anything that I have ever grafted
>> pushes right through it, and I've made many many grafts of many species.
>>
>> In my opinion wrapping tightly is important. I believe the 2 cambium
>> layers must be pulled and held together in order to callous, especially in
>> hardwood such as nut trees which would include harder wood of the plum
>> family. Plum wood is much more dense than cherry. I've had people tell me
>> they have successfully grafted using masking tape to hold the understock
>> and scion together and I have no doubt that can work. But I firmly believe
>> to increase your success percentage, wrap the graft union tight. Jerry
>>
>> A persimmon button pushing through Parafilm.
>>
>> As IBIBLIO often sees pictures as spam ( numerous times I've been removed
>> from the list for sending pictures) and IBIBLIO doesn't include the sender
>> I have no way of knowing if this was passed through and if I'm still
>> allowed on the net. Would someone let me know via direct email that the
>> picture came through.
>>
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