Thanks Lucky, much appreciated.
--- lpittman@murraystate.edu wrote:
From: Louis Pittman <lpittman@murraystate.edu>
To: fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com, mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [nafex] Advice on disease resistant apples for Charlotte NC
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2016 22:12:07 -0500
Consider MonArk in the early-season category. Product of U.of Ark.
breeding program. Good disease resistance.
Ripe here in southern west-central KY in early to mid-July. Big
red-over-green apple with crisp subacid white flesh. Good for fresh
eating, excellent for cooking, drying.
Unlike many early varieties, will keep for 6 wks or more under
refrigeration.
Requires repeated picking or stop-drop application... so, in my mind, great
for a home orchard, as they're not all ripe at the same time.
Charlotte, at Vintage Virginia Apples, had nothing but high praise for it
there.
Lucky
On Sat, Apr 30, 2016 at 6:04 PM, fuwa fuwa usagi <
fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com> wrote:
> I have a growing handful of friends in and around Charlotte NC.
>
> They have expressed some interest in dwarf apple trees and I am not sure
> what disease varieties would perform well there.
>
> I am thinking along the lines of early, mid-early, mid and late.
>
> So perhaps Williams Pride, Dayton, Liberty, Gold Rush? I just have no
> idea how any varieties will taste in that area. For example I suspect
> Liberty may not develop flavor without cool nights but I also here it does
> well in warmer climates.
>
> Advice much appreciated.
>
> the fluffy one
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> The Free Email with so much more!
> =====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
_____________________________________________________________
The Free Email with so much more!
=====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Saturday, April 30, 2016
Re: [nafex] Advice on disease resistant apples for Charlotte NC
Consider MonArk in the early-season category. Product of U.of Ark.
breeding program. Good disease resistance.
Ripe here in southern west-central KY in early to mid-July. Big
red-over-green apple with crisp subacid white flesh. Good for fresh
eating, excellent for cooking, drying.
Unlike many early varieties, will keep for 6 wks or more under
refrigeration.
Requires repeated picking or stop-drop application... so, in my mind, great
for a home orchard, as they're not all ripe at the same time.
Charlotte, at Vintage Virginia Apples, had nothing but high praise for it
there.
Lucky
On Sat, Apr 30, 2016 at 6:04 PM, fuwa fuwa usagi <
fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com> wrote:
> I have a growing handful of friends in and around Charlotte NC.
>
> They have expressed some interest in dwarf apple trees and I am not sure
> what disease varieties would perform well there.
>
> I am thinking along the lines of early, mid-early, mid and late.
>
> So perhaps Williams Pride, Dayton, Liberty, Gold Rush? I just have no
> idea how any varieties will taste in that area. For example I suspect
> Liberty may not develop flavor without cool nights but I also here it does
> well in warmer climates.
>
> Advice much appreciated.
>
> the fluffy one
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> The Free Email with so much more!
> =====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
breeding program. Good disease resistance.
Ripe here in southern west-central KY in early to mid-July. Big
red-over-green apple with crisp subacid white flesh. Good for fresh
eating, excellent for cooking, drying.
Unlike many early varieties, will keep for 6 wks or more under
refrigeration.
Requires repeated picking or stop-drop application... so, in my mind, great
for a home orchard, as they're not all ripe at the same time.
Charlotte, at Vintage Virginia Apples, had nothing but high praise for it
there.
Lucky
On Sat, Apr 30, 2016 at 6:04 PM, fuwa fuwa usagi <
fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com> wrote:
> I have a growing handful of friends in and around Charlotte NC.
>
> They have expressed some interest in dwarf apple trees and I am not sure
> what disease varieties would perform well there.
>
> I am thinking along the lines of early, mid-early, mid and late.
>
> So perhaps Williams Pride, Dayton, Liberty, Gold Rush? I just have no
> idea how any varieties will taste in that area. For example I suspect
> Liberty may not develop flavor without cool nights but I also here it does
> well in warmer climates.
>
> Advice much appreciated.
>
> the fluffy one
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> The Free Email with so much more!
> =====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] Advice on disease resistant apples for Charlotte NC
I have Williams Pride(second week of Aug for picking), Liberty(mid), and Gold Rush(real late). Those are my favorites.
Dan Ester
Eugene, Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: fuwa fuwa usagi <fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com>
To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Sat, Apr 30, 2016 4:04 pm
Subject: [nafex] Advice on disease resistant apples for Charlotte NC
I have a growing handful of friends in and around Charlotte NC.
They have expressed some interest in dwarf apple trees and I am not sure what disease varieties would perform well there.
I am thinking along the lines of early, mid-early, mid and late.
So perhaps Williams Pride, Dayton, Liberty, Gold Rush? I just have no idea how any varieties will taste in that area. For example I suspect Liberty may not develop flavor without cool nights but I also here it does well in warmer climates.
Advice much appreciated.
the fluffy one
_____________________________________________________________
The Free Email with so much more!
=====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Dan Ester
Eugene, Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: fuwa fuwa usagi <fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com>
To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Sat, Apr 30, 2016 4:04 pm
Subject: [nafex] Advice on disease resistant apples for Charlotte NC
I have a growing handful of friends in and around Charlotte NC.
They have expressed some interest in dwarf apple trees and I am not sure what disease varieties would perform well there.
I am thinking along the lines of early, mid-early, mid and late.
So perhaps Williams Pride, Dayton, Liberty, Gold Rush? I just have no idea how any varieties will taste in that area. For example I suspect Liberty may not develop flavor without cool nights but I also here it does well in warmer climates.
Advice much appreciated.
the fluffy one
_____________________________________________________________
The Free Email with so much more!
=====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
[nafex] Advice on disease resistant apples for Charlotte NC
I have a growing handful of friends in and around Charlotte NC.
They have expressed some interest in dwarf apple trees and I am not sure what disease varieties would perform well there.
I am thinking along the lines of early, mid-early, mid and late.
So perhaps Williams Pride, Dayton, Liberty, Gold Rush? I just have no idea how any varieties will taste in that area. For example I suspect Liberty may not develop flavor without cool nights but I also here it does well in warmer climates.
Advice much appreciated.
the fluffy one
_____________________________________________________________
The Free Email with so much more!
=====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
They have expressed some interest in dwarf apple trees and I am not sure what disease varieties would perform well there.
I am thinking along the lines of early, mid-early, mid and late.
So perhaps Williams Pride, Dayton, Liberty, Gold Rush? I just have no idea how any varieties will taste in that area. For example I suspect Liberty may not develop flavor without cool nights but I also here it does well in warmer climates.
Advice much appreciated.
the fluffy one
_____________________________________________________________
The Free Email with so much more!
=====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Friday, April 29, 2016
Re: [nafex] Morus Nigra Chilling Requirements, Etc
Thanks Idell.
Will ask around for verified morus nigra scions next winter/spring. They
would likely need to come from Canada due to shipping limitation. I imagine
my best bet would be British Columbia, where allegedly morus nigra
overwinters in the ground.
On Mar 29, 2016 11:08 AM, "Idell Weydemeyer" <iwgarden@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Black mulberries can be grafted onto white mulberries. Probably someone
> has scions that could be mailed. Mine has already broken dormancy so could
> not be mailed by me. My Morus nigra has black tipped buds and my Morus alba
> has white tipped buds .
>
> Perhaps you can buy a tree and keep it small in a large pot.
>
> Idell Weydemeyer Zone 9a El Sobrante, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nafex [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Nathan
> Wilson
> Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 7:27 AM
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> Subject: Re: [nafex] Morus Nigra Chilling Requirements, Etc
>
> Thanks Mark. Looking forward to seeing that dichotomous key.
>
> I just recently ordered supposed morus nigra seed from Trade Winds Fruit.
> Maybe it is true morus nigra or maybe it isn't; time will tell.
> Where can one purchase true/verified morus nigra seed?
>
> -Nathan
>
> On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 10:06 PM, mark wessel <growyourown@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Greetings All
> >
> > What a mixed up and confusing genus with nurseries offering mis
> > identified plants only adding to the confusion.
> > Unless past knowledge about Morus nigra is totally incorrect, M. nigra
> > is not hardy in most of the country. Indeed, it does not like humidity
> > but it also will not handle temps much below 15 F. Extensive
> > conversations with A.J. Bullard are the basis of my knowledge on the
> > subject. He is the first along with Michael at Edible Landscaping to
> > import M. nigra into this country.
> > I am working on a dichotomous key for Morus nigra, alba and rubber.
> > Not that this will relieve all id problems but it will be a good
> > start. The species have very distinct characteristics that differentiate
> themselves.
> > There are two sources so far that have added to the confusion. First,
> > a major seed house is offering M. nigra seeds which in fact are M
> > alba. Many nurseries use this seed house and end up selling mis id
> plants.
> > Secondly, A tissue culture lab is selling a dwarf nigra. I do not know
> > exactly what it is, I suspect alba , but it is not nigra. It doesn t
> > possess any of the diagnostic characteristics of nigra and it has
> > survived
> > 12 below F in a pot sitting above the soil level. Burnt Ridge is
> > offering one that fits this bill. I now have it from three different
> > sources and all are the same.
> > Then there is the issue of how freely alb and rubra hybridize.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Mar 28, 2016, at 3:57 PM, Robert Bruns <r.fred.bruns@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Lee -
> > >
> > > I'm pretty sure got it from Raintree. It's a very small plant,
> > > still
> > less
> > > than 3 feet tall. It gets a leaf disease that doesn't affect any of
> > > my
> > M.
> > > Alba/rubra, maybe that's why it isn't growing
> > >
> > > With respect to hardiness, I would bet the problem isn't surviving
> > > the
> > cold
> > > in mid-winter, especially if the plant is fully dormant and protected.
> > The
> > > problem is that the subtropical mulberries leaf out too early in the
> > spring
> > > and then get clobbered by late frosts.
> > >
> > > Fred
> > >
> > > On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 12:08 PM, SC <filtertitle@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >> I think the issue is that of humidity; not cold-tollerance. Mine
> > >> in ground 3-4 years.. occasionally bellow 0 F.
> > >> M. nigra -- for certain
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S 6 active, an AT&T 4G LTE
> > smartphone--------
> > >> Original message --------From: Lee Reich <leeareich@gmail.com> Date:
> > >> 3/28/2016 10:49 AM (GMT-05:00) To: mailing list at ibiblio -
> > >> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [nafex] Morus Nigra Chilling Requirements, Etc Fred, I
> > >> am very surprised at the amount of cold your M. nigra tolerated,
> > >> although we don t know just how cold it got in the unheated
> greenhouse.
> > >> Where did you get your M. nigra, because sometimes nurseries
> > >> mislabel
> > the
> > >> plant?
> > >>
> > >> Lee Reich, PhD
> > >> Come visit my farmden at http://www.leereich.com/blog <
> > >> http://www.leereich.com/blog> http://leereich.com/
> > >> <http://leereich.com/>
> > >>
> > >> Books by Lee Reich:
> > >> A Northeast Gardener's Year
> > >> The Pruning Book
> > >> Weedless Gardening
> > >> Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden
> > >> Landscaping with Fruit
> > >> Grow Fruit Naturally
> > >>
> > >>> On Mar 28, 2016, at 10:25 AM, Nathan Wilson <
> > nathan.b.c.wilson@gmail.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks very much Fred. This is exactly the sort of information I'm
> > >> looking
> > >>> for.
> > >>>
> > >>> Nathan
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> On Friday, March 25, 2016, Robert Bruns <r.fred.bruns@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>>> I have M. nigra "Noir de Spain" in a pot. I overwintered it in a
> > >>>> cool greenhouse where the temperature was set to 60 degrees but
> > >>>> got down as
> > >> low
> > >>>> as 35 on extremely cold nights. The plant sprouted about a month
> > >>>> ago, which implies that your option D would work.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> A few years ago, my previous greenhouse had its heater fail on a
> > >>>> night
> > >>> when
> > >>>> the temperature got down to minus 15. My Morus nigra survived,
> > >>>> but my
> > >>> figs
> > >>>> didn't. So your options A and B might work, but I think they are
> > iffy.
> > >>> In
> > >>>> your option C, I'm sure the plant would leaf out in the basement.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Good luck!
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Fred
> > >>>> central Indiana, zone 6 (formerly zone 5b)
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> On Fri, Mar 25, 2016 at 12:11 PM, Nathan Wilson <
> > >>> nathan.b.c.wilson@gmail.com
> > >>>>> wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> Hi everyone,
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> What are the chilling requirements of morus nigra?
> > >>>>> 1. Minimum chilling hours needed to ensure fruit set the next year.
> > >>>>> 2. Maximum temperature that 'counts' as chilling hours.
> > >>>>> 3. What conditions trigger the plants to break dormancy?
> > >>>>> 4. What are the lowest short-term and long-term temperatures the
> > plant
> > >>> will
> > >>>>> survive?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Background information: As mentioned in a previous post, I'm in
> > >>>>> zone
> > >> 5/6
> > >>>>> and have morus nigra in 87 litre (23 U.S. gal) pots.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> I'm weighing my options:
> > >>>>> A. Bury the plants in winter, just like some people do with
> > >>>>> figs. I'm
> > >> not
> > >>>>> sure if morus nigra is hardy enough for this.
> > >>>>> B. Put the plants in an unheated, detached garage over winter. I
> > think
> > >> it
> > >>>>> would get far too cold in January and February and would kill
> > >>>>> the
> > >> plants,
> > >>>>> although I haven't documented temperatures yet.
> > >>>>> C. Leave the plants outside until around Christmas to satisfy
> > chilling
> > >>>>> requirements, then put them in a cool basement, which is
> > >>>>> presently 12
> > >>> deg C
> > >>>>> (54 deg F), and hope the plants don't break dormancy before I
> > >>>>> can
> > bring
> > >>>>> them back outside.
> > >>>>> D. Greenhouse: I have a mekeshift greenhouse setup in my cellar
> > >>>>> door stairway. The temperature fluctuates, but I can control it
> > >>>>> to a
> > point.
> > >>> The
> > >>>>> benefit of having the plants in the greenhouse is that I think
> > >>>>> it
> > could
> > >>>>> reduce the number of years it takes the plants to bear, by
> > >>>>> making
> > them
> > >>>>> slightly healthier and more vigorous (this was pointed out by
> > >>>>> Lee
> > >> Reich).
> > >>>>> But, perhaps I can't have my cake and eat it too.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Any input or experiences would be appreciated.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> -Nathan
> > >>>>> __________________
> > >>>>> nafex mailing list
> > >>>>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > >>>>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> > >>>>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> > >>>>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > >>>>>
> > >>>> __________________
> > >>>> nafex mailing list
> > >>>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > >>>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> > >>>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> > >>>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > >>>>
> > >>> __________________
> > >>> nafex mailing list
> > >>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > >>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> > >>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> > >>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > >>
> > >> __________________
> > >> nafex mailing list
> > >> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > >> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
> > >> config|list info:
> > >> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > >> __________________
> > >> nafex mailing list
> > >> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > >> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
> > >> config|list info:
> > >> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > >>
> > > __________________
> > > nafex mailing list
> > > nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > > Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
> > > config|list info:
> > > http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> >
> > __________________
> > nafex mailing list
> > nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
> > config|list info:
> > http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> >
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
> config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Will ask around for verified morus nigra scions next winter/spring. They
would likely need to come from Canada due to shipping limitation. I imagine
my best bet would be British Columbia, where allegedly morus nigra
overwinters in the ground.
On Mar 29, 2016 11:08 AM, "Idell Weydemeyer" <iwgarden@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Black mulberries can be grafted onto white mulberries. Probably someone
> has scions that could be mailed. Mine has already broken dormancy so could
> not be mailed by me. My Morus nigra has black tipped buds and my Morus alba
> has white tipped buds .
>
> Perhaps you can buy a tree and keep it small in a large pot.
>
> Idell Weydemeyer Zone 9a El Sobrante, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nafex [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Nathan
> Wilson
> Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 7:27 AM
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> Subject: Re: [nafex] Morus Nigra Chilling Requirements, Etc
>
> Thanks Mark. Looking forward to seeing that dichotomous key.
>
> I just recently ordered supposed morus nigra seed from Trade Winds Fruit.
> Maybe it is true morus nigra or maybe it isn't; time will tell.
> Where can one purchase true/verified morus nigra seed?
>
> -Nathan
>
> On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 10:06 PM, mark wessel <growyourown@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Greetings All
> >
> > What a mixed up and confusing genus with nurseries offering mis
> > identified plants only adding to the confusion.
> > Unless past knowledge about Morus nigra is totally incorrect, M. nigra
> > is not hardy in most of the country. Indeed, it does not like humidity
> > but it also will not handle temps much below 15 F. Extensive
> > conversations with A.J. Bullard are the basis of my knowledge on the
> > subject. He is the first along with Michael at Edible Landscaping to
> > import M. nigra into this country.
> > I am working on a dichotomous key for Morus nigra, alba and rubber.
> > Not that this will relieve all id problems but it will be a good
> > start. The species have very distinct characteristics that differentiate
> themselves.
> > There are two sources so far that have added to the confusion. First,
> > a major seed house is offering M. nigra seeds which in fact are M
> > alba. Many nurseries use this seed house and end up selling mis id
> plants.
> > Secondly, A tissue culture lab is selling a dwarf nigra. I do not know
> > exactly what it is, I suspect alba , but it is not nigra. It doesn t
> > possess any of the diagnostic characteristics of nigra and it has
> > survived
> > 12 below F in a pot sitting above the soil level. Burnt Ridge is
> > offering one that fits this bill. I now have it from three different
> > sources and all are the same.
> > Then there is the issue of how freely alb and rubra hybridize.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Mar 28, 2016, at 3:57 PM, Robert Bruns <r.fred.bruns@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Lee -
> > >
> > > I'm pretty sure got it from Raintree. It's a very small plant,
> > > still
> > less
> > > than 3 feet tall. It gets a leaf disease that doesn't affect any of
> > > my
> > M.
> > > Alba/rubra, maybe that's why it isn't growing
> > >
> > > With respect to hardiness, I would bet the problem isn't surviving
> > > the
> > cold
> > > in mid-winter, especially if the plant is fully dormant and protected.
> > The
> > > problem is that the subtropical mulberries leaf out too early in the
> > spring
> > > and then get clobbered by late frosts.
> > >
> > > Fred
> > >
> > > On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 12:08 PM, SC <filtertitle@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >> I think the issue is that of humidity; not cold-tollerance. Mine
> > >> in ground 3-4 years.. occasionally bellow 0 F.
> > >> M. nigra -- for certain
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S 6 active, an AT&T 4G LTE
> > smartphone--------
> > >> Original message --------From: Lee Reich <leeareich@gmail.com> Date:
> > >> 3/28/2016 10:49 AM (GMT-05:00) To: mailing list at ibiblio -
> > >> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> > >> Subject: Re: [nafex] Morus Nigra Chilling Requirements, Etc Fred, I
> > >> am very surprised at the amount of cold your M. nigra tolerated,
> > >> although we don t know just how cold it got in the unheated
> greenhouse.
> > >> Where did you get your M. nigra, because sometimes nurseries
> > >> mislabel
> > the
> > >> plant?
> > >>
> > >> Lee Reich, PhD
> > >> Come visit my farmden at http://www.leereich.com/blog <
> > >> http://www.leereich.com/blog> http://leereich.com/
> > >> <http://leereich.com/>
> > >>
> > >> Books by Lee Reich:
> > >> A Northeast Gardener's Year
> > >> The Pruning Book
> > >> Weedless Gardening
> > >> Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden
> > >> Landscaping with Fruit
> > >> Grow Fruit Naturally
> > >>
> > >>> On Mar 28, 2016, at 10:25 AM, Nathan Wilson <
> > nathan.b.c.wilson@gmail.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks very much Fred. This is exactly the sort of information I'm
> > >> looking
> > >>> for.
> > >>>
> > >>> Nathan
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> On Friday, March 25, 2016, Robert Bruns <r.fred.bruns@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>>> I have M. nigra "Noir de Spain" in a pot. I overwintered it in a
> > >>>> cool greenhouse where the temperature was set to 60 degrees but
> > >>>> got down as
> > >> low
> > >>>> as 35 on extremely cold nights. The plant sprouted about a month
> > >>>> ago, which implies that your option D would work.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> A few years ago, my previous greenhouse had its heater fail on a
> > >>>> night
> > >>> when
> > >>>> the temperature got down to minus 15. My Morus nigra survived,
> > >>>> but my
> > >>> figs
> > >>>> didn't. So your options A and B might work, but I think they are
> > iffy.
> > >>> In
> > >>>> your option C, I'm sure the plant would leaf out in the basement.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Good luck!
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Fred
> > >>>> central Indiana, zone 6 (formerly zone 5b)
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> On Fri, Mar 25, 2016 at 12:11 PM, Nathan Wilson <
> > >>> nathan.b.c.wilson@gmail.com
> > >>>>> wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> Hi everyone,
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> What are the chilling requirements of morus nigra?
> > >>>>> 1. Minimum chilling hours needed to ensure fruit set the next year.
> > >>>>> 2. Maximum temperature that 'counts' as chilling hours.
> > >>>>> 3. What conditions trigger the plants to break dormancy?
> > >>>>> 4. What are the lowest short-term and long-term temperatures the
> > plant
> > >>> will
> > >>>>> survive?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Background information: As mentioned in a previous post, I'm in
> > >>>>> zone
> > >> 5/6
> > >>>>> and have morus nigra in 87 litre (23 U.S. gal) pots.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> I'm weighing my options:
> > >>>>> A. Bury the plants in winter, just like some people do with
> > >>>>> figs. I'm
> > >> not
> > >>>>> sure if morus nigra is hardy enough for this.
> > >>>>> B. Put the plants in an unheated, detached garage over winter. I
> > think
> > >> it
> > >>>>> would get far too cold in January and February and would kill
> > >>>>> the
> > >> plants,
> > >>>>> although I haven't documented temperatures yet.
> > >>>>> C. Leave the plants outside until around Christmas to satisfy
> > chilling
> > >>>>> requirements, then put them in a cool basement, which is
> > >>>>> presently 12
> > >>> deg C
> > >>>>> (54 deg F), and hope the plants don't break dormancy before I
> > >>>>> can
> > bring
> > >>>>> them back outside.
> > >>>>> D. Greenhouse: I have a mekeshift greenhouse setup in my cellar
> > >>>>> door stairway. The temperature fluctuates, but I can control it
> > >>>>> to a
> > point.
> > >>> The
> > >>>>> benefit of having the plants in the greenhouse is that I think
> > >>>>> it
> > could
> > >>>>> reduce the number of years it takes the plants to bear, by
> > >>>>> making
> > them
> > >>>>> slightly healthier and more vigorous (this was pointed out by
> > >>>>> Lee
> > >> Reich).
> > >>>>> But, perhaps I can't have my cake and eat it too.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Any input or experiences would be appreciated.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> -Nathan
> > >>>>> __________________
> > >>>>> nafex mailing list
> > >>>>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > >>>>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> > >>>>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> > >>>>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > >>>>>
> > >>>> __________________
> > >>>> nafex mailing list
> > >>>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > >>>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> > >>>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> > >>>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > >>>>
> > >>> __________________
> > >>> nafex mailing list
> > >>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > >>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> > >>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> > >>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > >>
> > >> __________________
> > >> nafex mailing list
> > >> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > >> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
> > >> config|list info:
> > >> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > >> __________________
> > >> nafex mailing list
> > >> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > >> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
> > >> config|list info:
> > >> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> > >>
> > > __________________
> > > nafex mailing list
> > > nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > > Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
> > > config|list info:
> > > http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> >
> > __________________
> > nafex mailing list
> > nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> > Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
> > config|list info:
> > http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> >
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
> config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Thursday, April 28, 2016
Re: [nafex] No Peaches this year
Winter 2014-15 was worse here than I'd realized, based on what I *felt* like
the temps were...
Killed my blackberries back to the snowline. Killed blossom buds on
virtually every pear, apple, plum and blueberry.
My blueberry crop... off of 30+ bushes... was SIX berries.
Mulberries and strawberries accounted for the only successful fruit harvest
in 2015.
Thus far, 2016 looks like everything is going to be GOOD! (And I'll keep
hoping that!)
Lucky
-----Original Message-----
From: nafex [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Richard
Moyer
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2016 1:51 PM
To: nafex
Subject: Re: [nafex] No Peaches this year
Here in SW VA, we also had a mild winter, and some things bloomed out early.
Hardest hit were Nanking Cherries and Peaches. As another noted, many/most
pawpaw blooms hurt. Apples look OK. We've never lost juneberry blooms or
fruit to winter or spring freezes.
Last winter (2015) we reached 24F below zero, here at 1800' and just 25
miles from NE TN. This killed most mulberries outright, and killed major
limbs on certain peach trees. Killed some caneberries back as well.
Agreed that Easter 2007 freeze the most damage in memory; we lost 10 of 12
kaki persimmon cultivars; little to no fruit that year in most things we
grow. As Lucky noted, when the native trees sustain major damage, you know
it's an unusual freeze.
Major challenge here this year has been spring drought. One farmer said in
his county, March-midApril was the driest in recorded history. We had some
rain over the last week, but 30 miles south of here in NE TN, it's still so
dry that the young leaves on Juneberry bushes are wilted and curling. They
may have received some rain last night...
Richard Moyer
Castlewood, SW VA
Juneberry cobbler for breakfast, blueberry pancakes for lunch---freezers a
wonderful invention for fruit lovers.
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
the temps were...
Killed my blackberries back to the snowline. Killed blossom buds on
virtually every pear, apple, plum and blueberry.
My blueberry crop... off of 30+ bushes... was SIX berries.
Mulberries and strawberries accounted for the only successful fruit harvest
in 2015.
Thus far, 2016 looks like everything is going to be GOOD! (And I'll keep
hoping that!)
Lucky
-----Original Message-----
From: nafex [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Richard
Moyer
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2016 1:51 PM
To: nafex
Subject: Re: [nafex] No Peaches this year
Here in SW VA, we also had a mild winter, and some things bloomed out early.
Hardest hit were Nanking Cherries and Peaches. As another noted, many/most
pawpaw blooms hurt. Apples look OK. We've never lost juneberry blooms or
fruit to winter or spring freezes.
Last winter (2015) we reached 24F below zero, here at 1800' and just 25
miles from NE TN. This killed most mulberries outright, and killed major
limbs on certain peach trees. Killed some caneberries back as well.
Agreed that Easter 2007 freeze the most damage in memory; we lost 10 of 12
kaki persimmon cultivars; little to no fruit that year in most things we
grow. As Lucky noted, when the native trees sustain major damage, you know
it's an unusual freeze.
Major challenge here this year has been spring drought. One farmer said in
his county, March-midApril was the driest in recorded history. We had some
rain over the last week, but 30 miles south of here in NE TN, it's still so
dry that the young leaves on Juneberry bushes are wilted and curling. They
may have received some rain last night...
Richard Moyer
Castlewood, SW VA
Juneberry cobbler for breakfast, blueberry pancakes for lunch---freezers a
wonderful invention for fruit lovers.
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] no peaches this year :-(
On Apr 28, 2016, at 11:08 AM, V. Michael Bove, Jr. wrote:
> The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed the flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan), apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally, but no idea yet about fruit set.
>
> Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
>
> Michael Bove
> Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
> __________________
I've been told that there won't be a peach crop in this general area, because buds were too far advanced when we hit 8ºF.
I haven't any bearing age peaches this year. I do have bloom coming on the old pear tree, however; and most appears to be undamaged.
-- Rivka; Finger Lakes NY, Zone 6A now I think
Fresh-market organic produce, small scale
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed the flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan), apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally, but no idea yet about fruit set.
>
> Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
>
> Michael Bove
> Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
> __________________
I've been told that there won't be a peach crop in this general area, because buds were too far advanced when we hit 8ºF.
I haven't any bearing age peaches this year. I do have bloom coming on the old pear tree, however; and most appears to be undamaged.
-- Rivka; Finger Lakes NY, Zone 6A now I think
Fresh-market organic produce, small scale
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] No Peaches this year
Here in SW VA, we also had a mild winter, and some things bloomed out
early.
Hardest hit were Nanking Cherries and Peaches. As another noted, many/most
pawpaw blooms hurt. Apples look OK. We've never lost juneberry blooms or
fruit to winter or spring freezes.
Last winter (2015) we reached 24F below zero, here at 1800' and just 25
miles from NE TN. This killed most mulberries outright, and killed major
limbs on certain peach trees. Killed some caneberries back as well.
Agreed that Easter 2007 freeze the most damage in memory; we lost 10 of 12
kaki persimmon cultivars; little to no fruit that year in most things we
grow. As Lucky noted, when the native trees sustain major damage, you know
it's an unusual freeze.
Major challenge here this year has been spring drought. One farmer said in
his county, March-midApril was the driest in recorded history. We had some
rain over the last week, but 30 miles south of here in NE TN, it's still so
dry that the young leaves on Juneberry bushes are wilted and curling. They
may have received some rain last night...
Richard Moyer
Castlewood, SW VA
Juneberry cobbler for breakfast, blueberry pancakes for lunch---freezers a
wonderful invention for fruit lovers.
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
early.
Hardest hit were Nanking Cherries and Peaches. As another noted, many/most
pawpaw blooms hurt. Apples look OK. We've never lost juneberry blooms or
fruit to winter or spring freezes.
Last winter (2015) we reached 24F below zero, here at 1800' and just 25
miles from NE TN. This killed most mulberries outright, and killed major
limbs on certain peach trees. Killed some caneberries back as well.
Agreed that Easter 2007 freeze the most damage in memory; we lost 10 of 12
kaki persimmon cultivars; little to no fruit that year in most things we
grow. As Lucky noted, when the native trees sustain major damage, you know
it's an unusual freeze.
Major challenge here this year has been spring drought. One farmer said in
his county, March-midApril was the driest in recorded history. We had some
rain over the last week, but 30 miles south of here in NE TN, it's still so
dry that the young leaves on Juneberry bushes are wilted and curling. They
may have received some rain last night...
Richard Moyer
Castlewood, SW VA
Juneberry cobbler for breakfast, blueberry pancakes for lunch---freezers a
wonderful invention for fruit lovers.
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
[nafex] fruit trees at elevation
You might glean some tips from Jerome Osentowski at Central Rocky Mountain Permaculture Institute (CRMPI).
He grows fruit trees in a permaculture system in Basalt Colorado at over 6,600' elevation.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehBQUJJwQpE
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of nafex digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. fruit trees in containers (Jay Cutts)
2. Re: fruit trees in containers (sherwin)
Attached Message
From
Jay Cutts <orders@cuttsreviews.com>
To
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject
[nafex] fruit trees in containers
Date
Wed, 27 Apr 2016 19:38:47 -0600
I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches, plums,
cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico....
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
He grows fruit trees in a permaculture system in Basalt Colorado at over 6,600' elevation.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehBQUJJwQpE
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of nafex digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. fruit trees in containers (Jay Cutts)
2. Re: fruit trees in containers (sherwin)
Attached Message
From
Jay Cutts <orders@cuttsreviews.com>
To
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject
[nafex] fruit trees in containers
Date
Wed, 27 Apr 2016 19:38:47 -0600
I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches, plums,
cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico....
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] no peaches this year :-(
On 4/28/2016 10:08 AM, V. Michael Bove, Jr. wrote:
> The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed the flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan), apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally, but no idea yet about fruit set.
>
> Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
>
> Michael Bove
> Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
I lost my Moorpark Apricots to fluctuating temperatures, this year.
Not uncommon here in Illinois. My plums, peaches,
sour cherries, pears, and apples seem to be blossoming out ok.
I am surprised your apricots outlasted your peaches. You must have
a very late blooming apricot, as most of the
apricots here are the first to flower out.
Sherwin
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed the flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan), apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally, but no idea yet about fruit set.
>
> Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
>
> Michael Bove
> Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
I lost my Moorpark Apricots to fluctuating temperatures, this year.
Not uncommon here in Illinois. My plums, peaches,
sour cherries, pears, and apples seem to be blossoming out ok.
I am surprised your apricots outlasted your peaches. You must have
a very late blooming apricot, as most of the
apricots here are the first to flower out.
Sherwin
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] no peaches this year :-(
We had many fruits leafed out from a warm Feb and March when the freezes
occurred. I noticed severe freeze damage to foliage of persimmons and
kiwi. No kiwi fruit this year, all the blossoms were frozen.
Leaves of Nanking cherries, goumi, filberts, pears, Cornelian cherries,
dog rose and apples look mostly OK. Goumi fruit is developing, I am not
sure about the others. Keiffer pears had set fruit and they have been
frozen and aborted. Some fireblight developing in damaged blooms.
Rabbiteye blueberries that had set fruit were frozen, but I am hopeful
for some yields from later blooms. Juneberries had not yet bloomed and
have set fruit normally. Pawpaw flowers were frozen, some blooms
continue, so there is hope for a small crop this year. Mulberries just
leafing out and fruit looks unaffected.
Muscadines had not leafed out so were unaffected. Early growth on pecans
was lost, some oaks may not have a crop of acorns as blossoms damaged,
leaves somewhat scorched. Chestnut leaves were damaged, hickories and
black walnuts emerged with the muscadines and seem to be OK.
I agree with Lucky, the Easter freeze of 2007 was worse. I did not see
any ice flowers or exploding tree branches this spring. I did notice
severe winter damage to trunks of kiwis and Asian persimmons though...
They must have had significant sap flowing that froze during the cold
nights.
Betsy Hilborn
7a, NC
On 4/28/2016 11:08 AM, V. Michael Bove, Jr. wrote:
> The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed the flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan), apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally, but no idea yet about fruit set.
>
> Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
>
> Michael Bove
> Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
occurred. I noticed severe freeze damage to foliage of persimmons and
kiwi. No kiwi fruit this year, all the blossoms were frozen.
Leaves of Nanking cherries, goumi, filberts, pears, Cornelian cherries,
dog rose and apples look mostly OK. Goumi fruit is developing, I am not
sure about the others. Keiffer pears had set fruit and they have been
frozen and aborted. Some fireblight developing in damaged blooms.
Rabbiteye blueberries that had set fruit were frozen, but I am hopeful
for some yields from later blooms. Juneberries had not yet bloomed and
have set fruit normally. Pawpaw flowers were frozen, some blooms
continue, so there is hope for a small crop this year. Mulberries just
leafing out and fruit looks unaffected.
Muscadines had not leafed out so were unaffected. Early growth on pecans
was lost, some oaks may not have a crop of acorns as blossoms damaged,
leaves somewhat scorched. Chestnut leaves were damaged, hickories and
black walnuts emerged with the muscadines and seem to be OK.
I agree with Lucky, the Easter freeze of 2007 was worse. I did not see
any ice flowers or exploding tree branches this spring. I did notice
severe winter damage to trunks of kiwis and Asian persimmons though...
They must have had significant sap flowing that froze during the cold
nights.
Betsy Hilborn
7a, NC
On 4/28/2016 11:08 AM, V. Michael Bove, Jr. wrote:
> The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed the flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan), apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally, but no idea yet about fruit set.
>
> Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
>
> Michael Bove
> Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] fruit trees in containers
On 4/28/2016 12:34 PM, sherwin wrote:
> On 4/27/2016 8:38 PM, Jay Cutts wrote:
>> I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches,
>> plums, cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico.
>>
>> They can be outside during the growing season but in the winter I'll
>> need to 1) make sure they get their chilling hours but 2) keep the
>> rootball from freezing to the point that the plant is killed.
>>
>> Does anyone have any idea how much freezing the rootballs could take?
>> The containers will be stored sitting on the ground, so they are
>> exposed. Is it a matter of how cold they get or how long they are
>> frozen?
>>
>> In the ground the roots would be frozen most of the winter but the
>> temperature might not get as cold as when the roots are in a pot?
>>
>> The benefit of pot growing would be that I can move the plants
>> indoors or into a protected spot once they flower and avoid the
>> lethal effects of late frosts. But then I have to worry about
>> pollination.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>>
>
I am in a warmer climate, but I had to hold young fruit and nut tree
graftlings and seedlings over the winter in narrow tree pots. They are
in deep pots and burying them was not an option.
I pushed the pots close together in the corner of an unheated structure.
I packed all gaps between the pots with hay and rolled up wet
newspapers. I surrounded the group with 5 gallon buckets filled with
water and made sure there were no air spaces between buckets and pots
(more hay and wet rolled up newspaper). I kept them watered weekly over
the winter.
They have all but one (9/10 plants) survived the winter and are leafing out.
I am not sure this type of insulated above ground method would work in
your colder climate. We had a relatively mild (predominantly >10 degree
F) winter.
Betsy Hilborn
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> On 4/27/2016 8:38 PM, Jay Cutts wrote:
>> I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches,
>> plums, cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico.
>>
>> They can be outside during the growing season but in the winter I'll
>> need to 1) make sure they get their chilling hours but 2) keep the
>> rootball from freezing to the point that the plant is killed.
>>
>> Does anyone have any idea how much freezing the rootballs could take?
>> The containers will be stored sitting on the ground, so they are
>> exposed. Is it a matter of how cold they get or how long they are
>> frozen?
>>
>> In the ground the roots would be frozen most of the winter but the
>> temperature might not get as cold as when the roots are in a pot?
>>
>> The benefit of pot growing would be that I can move the plants
>> indoors or into a protected spot once they flower and avoid the
>> lethal effects of late frosts. But then I have to worry about
>> pollination.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>>
>
I am in a warmer climate, but I had to hold young fruit and nut tree
graftlings and seedlings over the winter in narrow tree pots. They are
in deep pots and burying them was not an option.
I pushed the pots close together in the corner of an unheated structure.
I packed all gaps between the pots with hay and rolled up wet
newspapers. I surrounded the group with 5 gallon buckets filled with
water and made sure there were no air spaces between buckets and pots
(more hay and wet rolled up newspaper). I kept them watered weekly over
the winter.
They have all but one (9/10 plants) survived the winter and are leafing out.
I am not sure this type of insulated above ground method would work in
your colder climate. We had a relatively mild (predominantly >10 degree
F) winter.
Betsy Hilborn
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] no peaches this year :-(
Yikes! Sorry to hear that.
We escaped any serious damage, so far as I can tell at this point, this
year.
But I can identify with you... back in 2007, we'd had an inordinately warm
Feb/March...with almost everything breaking dormancy... then Easter arrived,
with four consecutive nights of temperatures dropping into the 'teens.
Many plants had 6-10 inches of tender new growth that was killed back.
Almost all Carpathian walnuts, heartnuts, persimmons were killed back to
their rootstock - amazingly, though, most of the Asian persimmons I had at
that time were still dormant. Seedling heartnuts were killed outright.
Big mature hickories and oaks in my forest were killed back to main trunk.
Subsequent to the Easter Big Freeze Disaster, we went from May 10 to Nov 30
with a single 1" rain event... a lot of mature trees succumbed to the
double-whammy of freeze and drought.
Lucky
-----Original Message-----
From: nafex [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of V. Michael
Bove, Jr.
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2016 10:08 AM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [nafex] no peaches this year :-(
The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed the
flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan),
apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally,
but no idea yet about fruit set.
Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our
magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
Michael Bove
Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
We escaped any serious damage, so far as I can tell at this point, this
year.
But I can identify with you... back in 2007, we'd had an inordinately warm
Feb/March...with almost everything breaking dormancy... then Easter arrived,
with four consecutive nights of temperatures dropping into the 'teens.
Many plants had 6-10 inches of tender new growth that was killed back.
Almost all Carpathian walnuts, heartnuts, persimmons were killed back to
their rootstock - amazingly, though, most of the Asian persimmons I had at
that time were still dormant. Seedling heartnuts were killed outright.
Big mature hickories and oaks in my forest were killed back to main trunk.
Subsequent to the Easter Big Freeze Disaster, we went from May 10 to Nov 30
with a single 1" rain event... a lot of mature trees succumbed to the
double-whammy of freeze and drought.
Lucky
-----Original Message-----
From: nafex [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of V. Michael
Bove, Jr.
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2016 10:08 AM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [nafex] no peaches this year :-(
The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed the
flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan),
apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally,
but no idea yet about fruit set.
Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our
magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
Michael Bove
Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters subscribe/unsubscribe|user
config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] fruit trees in containers
On 4/27/2016 8:38 PM, Jay Cutts wrote:
> I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches,
> plums, cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico.
>
> They can be outside during the growing season but in the winter I'll
> need to 1) make sure they get their chilling hours but 2) keep the
> rootball from freezing to the point that the plant is killed.
>
> Does anyone have any idea how much freezing the rootballs could take?
> The containers will be stored sitting on the ground, so they are
> exposed. Is it a matter of how cold they get or how long they are frozen?
>
> In the ground the roots would be frozen most of the winter but the
> temperature might not get as cold as when the roots are in a pot?
>
> The benefit of pot growing would be that I can move the plants indoors
> or into a protected spot once they flower and avoid the lethal effects
> of late frosts. But then I have to worry about pollination.
>
> Any ideas?
>
I bury my pots in the raised bed garden here in Illinois, and that
appears to protect them. However, in checking freezing
depths for Illinois, it could go down to 50 inches, so I wonder
now if this is adequate protection. In your case, being at
a higher altitude could mean a lower depth of the ground
freezing. I would check with your local sources as to what
depth your ground freezes before using a buried pot as any protection.
Sherwin
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches,
> plums, cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico.
>
> They can be outside during the growing season but in the winter I'll
> need to 1) make sure they get their chilling hours but 2) keep the
> rootball from freezing to the point that the plant is killed.
>
> Does anyone have any idea how much freezing the rootballs could take?
> The containers will be stored sitting on the ground, so they are
> exposed. Is it a matter of how cold they get or how long they are frozen?
>
> In the ground the roots would be frozen most of the winter but the
> temperature might not get as cold as when the roots are in a pot?
>
> The benefit of pot growing would be that I can move the plants indoors
> or into a protected spot once they flower and avoid the lethal effects
> of late frosts. But then I have to worry about pollination.
>
> Any ideas?
>
I bury my pots in the raised bed garden here in Illinois, and that
appears to protect them. However, in checking freezing
depths for Illinois, it could go down to 50 inches, so I wonder
now if this is adequate protection. In your case, being at
a higher altitude could mean a lower depth of the ground
freezing. I would check with your local sources as to what
depth your ground freezes before using a buried pot as any protection.
Sherwin
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] no peaches this year :-(
No mulberries (alba) this year in northern DE, at least in my yard.
On Apr 28, 2016 11:08 AM, "V. Michael Bove, Jr." <vmb@teakettlefarm.com>
wrote:
> The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed
> the flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan),
> apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally,
> but no idea yet about fruit set.
>
> Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on
> our magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
>
> Michael Bove
> Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
On Apr 28, 2016 11:08 AM, "V. Michael Bove, Jr." <vmb@teakettlefarm.com>
wrote:
> The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed
> the flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan),
> apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally,
> but no idea yet about fruit set.
>
> Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on
> our magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
>
> Michael Bove
> Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
[nafex] no peaches this year :-(
The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed the flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan), apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally, but no idea yet about fruit set.
Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
Michael Bove
Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
Michael Bove
Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
[nafex] fruit trees in pots
The difficulty with growing fruit in pots is to keep them frozen during the winter. I had 3 apples on M-27 in 24" plastic pots for about 5 years. I would keep them in an unheated greenhouse and pack them with bags of dry leaves. The abrupt changes in temperature : freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw is what kills them. The trees all survived BTW and I ended up giving them away. I plan to do it again this year with a new set of apples.
If you can bury them in the ground, pot and all, I'm sure they would make it. You may need to cover them above ground with some sort of insulation like leaves or a blanket.
Craig
________________________________________
I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches, plums,
cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico.
They can be outside during the growing season but in the winter I'll
need to 1) make sure they get their chilling hours but 2) keep the
rootball from freezing to the point that the plant is killed.
Does anyone have any idea how much freezing the rootballs could take?
The containers will be stored sitting on the ground, so they are
exposed. Is it a matter of how cold they get or how long they are frozen?
In the ground the roots would be frozen most of the winter but the
temperature might not get as cold as when the roots are in a pot?
The benefit of pot growing would be that I can move the plants indoors
or into a protected spot once they flower and avoid the lethal effects
of late frosts. But then I have to worry about pollination.
Any ideas?
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
If you can bury them in the ground, pot and all, I'm sure they would make it. You may need to cover them above ground with some sort of insulation like leaves or a blanket.
Craig
________________________________________
I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches, plums,
cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico.
They can be outside during the growing season but in the winter I'll
need to 1) make sure they get their chilling hours but 2) keep the
rootball from freezing to the point that the plant is killed.
Does anyone have any idea how much freezing the rootballs could take?
The containers will be stored sitting on the ground, so they are
exposed. Is it a matter of how cold they get or how long they are frozen?
In the ground the roots would be frozen most of the winter but the
temperature might not get as cold as when the roots are in a pot?
The benefit of pot growing would be that I can move the plants indoors
or into a protected spot once they flower and avoid the lethal effects
of late frosts. But then I have to worry about pollination.
Any ideas?
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Wednesday, April 27, 2016
Re: [nafex] fruit trees in containers
On 4/27/2016 8:38 PM, Jay Cutts wrote:
> I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches,
> plums, cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico.
>
> They can be outside during the growing season but in the winter I'll
> need to 1) make sure they get their chilling hours but 2) keep the
> rootball from freezing to the point that the plant is killed.
>
> Does anyone have any idea how much freezing the rootballs could take?
> The containers will be stored sitting on the ground, so they are
> exposed. Is it a matter of how cold they get or how long they are frozen?
>
> In the ground the roots would be frozen most of the winter but the
> temperature might not get as cold as when the roots are in a pot?
>
> The benefit of pot growing would be that I can move the plants indoors
> or into a protected spot once they flower and avoid the lethal effects
> of late frosts. But then I have to worry about pollination.
>
> Any ideas?
>
Unless you have a huge number of blossoms, you could do hand
pollination with a cotton Q-tip.
Sherwin
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches,
> plums, cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico.
>
> They can be outside during the growing season but in the winter I'll
> need to 1) make sure they get their chilling hours but 2) keep the
> rootball from freezing to the point that the plant is killed.
>
> Does anyone have any idea how much freezing the rootballs could take?
> The containers will be stored sitting on the ground, so they are
> exposed. Is it a matter of how cold they get or how long they are frozen?
>
> In the ground the roots would be frozen most of the winter but the
> temperature might not get as cold as when the roots are in a pot?
>
> The benefit of pot growing would be that I can move the plants indoors
> or into a protected spot once they flower and avoid the lethal effects
> of late frosts. But then I have to worry about pollination.
>
> Any ideas?
>
Unless you have a huge number of blossoms, you could do hand
pollination with a cotton Q-tip.
Sherwin
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
[nafex] fruit trees in containers
I'm considering trying to grow fruit trees such as dwarf peaches, plums,
cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico.
They can be outside during the growing season but in the winter I'll
need to 1) make sure they get their chilling hours but 2) keep the
rootball from freezing to the point that the plant is killed.
Does anyone have any idea how much freezing the rootballs could take?
The containers will be stored sitting on the ground, so they are
exposed. Is it a matter of how cold they get or how long they are frozen?
In the ground the roots would be frozen most of the winter but the
temperature might not get as cold as when the roots are in a pot?
The benefit of pot growing would be that I can move the plants indoors
or into a protected spot once they flower and avoid the lethal effects
of late frosts. But then I have to worry about pollination.
Any ideas?
--
Regards,
Jay
Jay Cutts
Director, Cutts Graduate Reviews
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Prep Book
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Flash Cards
Lead Author, Barron's LSAT Prep Book
(505)-281-0684
10 am to 10 pm Mt Time, 7 days
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
cherries in containers. We're at 7000 feet in New Mexico.
They can be outside during the growing season but in the winter I'll
need to 1) make sure they get their chilling hours but 2) keep the
rootball from freezing to the point that the plant is killed.
Does anyone have any idea how much freezing the rootballs could take?
The containers will be stored sitting on the ground, so they are
exposed. Is it a matter of how cold they get or how long they are frozen?
In the ground the roots would be frozen most of the winter but the
temperature might not get as cold as when the roots are in a pot?
The benefit of pot growing would be that I can move the plants indoors
or into a protected spot once they flower and avoid the lethal effects
of late frosts. But then I have to worry about pollination.
Any ideas?
--
Regards,
Jay
Jay Cutts
Director, Cutts Graduate Reviews
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Prep Book
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Flash Cards
Lead Author, Barron's LSAT Prep Book
(505)-281-0684
10 am to 10 pm Mt Time, 7 days
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] fruit bags for organic production
I'll give it a try. I am in a hot humid very wet place (Houston 9b+/10a-) and possibly our sun and humidity would make the fruit either cooked or boiled in plastic, but again maybe not.
"Share What You Grow and What You Know!"
Bob Randall, Ph.D.
YearRoundGardening@comcast.net
http://yearroundgardening.me
home/office: 713-661-9737
cell 832-317-8983
> On Apr 25, 2016, at 11:55 PM, sherwin <sherwindu@att.net> wrote:
>
> On 4/25/2016 3:59 PM, Bob Randall wrote:
>> I have been using bags on high value fruit where there aren't more than 30 or so for many years.
>>
>> Generally I use wooden clothespins to fix them.
>>
>> What I use is fiberglass window screening cut with scissors into double layer pockets and stapled with office stapler on 3 sides. These are very durable, easy to make, very cheap, and last a very long time. If birds are an issue, you need to get them on before color changes. Fiberglass window screening is about $6 or so for 50 ft by 4 ft. Maybe 16 double layer pockets. You can use a hacksaw on the roles of screening.
>>
>> This year I am also trying something new— dark "knee-high" women's short stockings also pinned with clothespins. These also are very cheap—$5 or so for around 50. Don't know how long they will last, but should keep off everything and they dry very quickly and very light weight.
>>
>> Bob Randall
>>
>>
>> "Share What You Grow and What You Know!"
>>
>> Bob Randall, Ph.D.
>> YearRoundGardening@comcast.net
>> http://yearroundgardening.me
>> home/office: 713-661-9737
>> cell 832-317-8983
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Apr 1, 2016, at 1:23 AM, sherwin <sherwindu@att.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> On 3/31/2016 10:53 PM, Ginda Fisher wrote:
>>>> On Mar 31, 2016, at 11:41 AM, Jono Neiger wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi
>>>>> Im wondering what people think of bagging individual fruit as in using
>>>>> "fruit bags" or "Japanese fruit bags"
>>>>>
>>>>> Ive thought of trying it but havent gotten around to it. And I have several
>>>>> clients looking for them. Any sources?
>>>>>
>>>>> (sorry if this is a repeat topic- I didnt search the archives)
>>>>>
>>>>> thanks
>>>>>
>>>>> Jono
>>>> I also used zip-lock baggies to protect apples for a couple of years. I cut off a corner of each bag, so they wouldn't fill with water. This did a good job of keeping out insects. More importantly, it did a surprisingly good job of keep out cedar apple rust. I have more problems with rust than with insects, due to my location and there not being many domestic apples around.
>>>>
>>>> But, the local critters learned that bags meant yummy food, and they selectively ate all the bagged fruit (but didn't notice all the unbagged fruit.) So I gave up.
>>>>
>>>> Mostly it was squirrels, which just chewed through the bags to get at the apples. But the funniest was when I found a an apple that had been 1/3 eaten, and then carefully re-sealed into the bag. I assume that was a raccoon. (The teeth marks were the right size for a raccoon, as well as the odd behavior.)
>>>>
>>>> Ginda Fisher
>>>> eastern MA, zone 6
>>>> __________________
>>>> nafex mailing list
>>>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>>>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>>>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
>>>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>>>>
>>> Ginda,
>>>
>>> I found just cutting slits in the bottom of the zip-locks allowed for drainage and perhaps provided less of an entry point
>>> for the insects. The problem with zip-locks is at the fruit stem where bugs like aphids would enter. I didn't want to put
>>> in the effort, but some people add a twist tie to complete that seal at the fruit stem.
>>>
>>> Your critters seem more aggressive than mine. Mine mainly went for the fruit on the ground. The bags did slow them down
>>> a bit. My solution for the critters was to trap and remove them. A big job, at first, but then the population seemed to
>>> subside with subsequent seasons.
>>>
>>> Some of my semi-dwarfs produced a huge amount of fruit (over 200 fruits after thinning), so putting on these bags became
>>> a chore. My solution is to go for smaller trees like on M27 as I don't need huge crops. I also find that sticky traps are very
>>> effective, even without lures. I will use the bags this year, but only on my prized fruits. I may also do an occasional spray
>>> if time and opportunity present itself.
>>>
>>> Sherwin
>>>
>>> ---
>>>
> The nylon approach has been tried and not been too successful. The nylon breaks down in the sun.
>
> I'm not sure if the mesh bags sold were fiberglass, or not. However, I found the more aggressive insects
> like Apple Maggot would go through those. Something to consider. I like the ziplock bags with slits cut
> at the bottom for rain drainage. They do need a fastener at the fruit stem to do a complete seal.
>
> Sherwin
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Tuesday, April 26, 2016
Re: [nafex] fruit bags for organic production
There was a discussion of this on gardenweb. I've read of people using lightweight row cover material, cut and stapled into bag shapes. There was also a recommendation of sewn cotton bags for sale online cheaply somewhere. Haven't tried it myself.
Melissa
Sent from my iPhone (pardon my brevity).
> On Mar 31, 2016, at 11:41 AM, Jono Neiger <jono@regenerativedesigngroup.com> wrote:
>
> Hi
> Im wondering what people think of bagging individual fruit as in using
> "fruit bags" or "Japanese fruit bags"
>
> Ive thought of trying it but havent gotten around to it. And I have several
> clients looking for them. Any sources?
>
> (sorry if this is a repeat topic- I didnt search the archives)
>
> thanks
>
> Jono
>
> *Jono Neiger, Principal*
> Regenerative Design Group
> 1 Chevalier Avenue
> Greenfield, Massachusetts 01301
> web. regenerativedesigngroup.com
> tel. 413-658-7048
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Melissa
Sent from my iPhone (pardon my brevity).
> On Mar 31, 2016, at 11:41 AM, Jono Neiger <jono@regenerativedesigngroup.com> wrote:
>
> Hi
> Im wondering what people think of bagging individual fruit as in using
> "fruit bags" or "Japanese fruit bags"
>
> Ive thought of trying it but havent gotten around to it. And I have several
> clients looking for them. Any sources?
>
> (sorry if this is a repeat topic- I didnt search the archives)
>
> thanks
>
> Jono
>
> *Jono Neiger, Principal*
> Regenerative Design Group
> 1 Chevalier Avenue
> Greenfield, Massachusetts 01301
> web. regenerativedesigngroup.com
> tel. 413-658-7048
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Monday, April 25, 2016
Re: [nafex] fruit bags for organic production
On 4/25/2016 3:59 PM, Bob Randall wrote:
> I have been using bags on high value fruit where there aren't more than 30 or so for many years.
>
> Generally I use wooden clothespins to fix them.
>
> What I use is fiberglass window screening cut with scissors into double layer pockets and stapled with office stapler on 3 sides. These are very durable, easy to make, very cheap, and last a very long time. If birds are an issue, you need to get them on before color changes. Fiberglass window screening is about $6 or so for 50 ft by 4 ft. Maybe 16 double layer pockets. You can use a hacksaw on the roles of screening.
>
> This year I am also trying something new— dark "knee-high" women's short stockings also pinned with clothespins. These also are very cheap—$5 or so for around 50. Don't know how long they will last, but should keep off everything and they dry very quickly and very light weight.
>
> Bob Randall
>
>
> "Share What You Grow and What You Know!"
>
> Bob Randall, Ph.D.
> YearRoundGardening@comcast.net
> http://yearroundgardening.me
> home/office: 713-661-9737
> cell 832-317-8983
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> On Apr 1, 2016, at 1:23 AM, sherwin <sherwindu@att.net> wrote:
>>
>> On 3/31/2016 10:53 PM, Ginda Fisher wrote:
>>> On Mar 31, 2016, at 11:41 AM, Jono Neiger wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi
>>>> Im wondering what people think of bagging individual fruit as in using
>>>> "fruit bags" or "Japanese fruit bags"
>>>>
>>>> Ive thought of trying it but havent gotten around to it. And I have several
>>>> clients looking for them. Any sources?
>>>>
>>>> (sorry if this is a repeat topic- I didnt search the archives)
>>>>
>>>> thanks
>>>>
>>>> Jono
>>> I also used zip-lock baggies to protect apples for a couple of years. I cut off a corner of each bag, so they wouldn't fill with water. This did a good job of keeping out insects. More importantly, it did a surprisingly good job of keep out cedar apple rust. I have more problems with rust than with insects, due to my location and there not being many domestic apples around.
>>>
>>> But, the local critters learned that bags meant yummy food, and they selectively ate all the bagged fruit (but didn't notice all the unbagged fruit.) So I gave up.
>>>
>>> Mostly it was squirrels, which just chewed through the bags to get at the apples. But the funniest was when I found a an apple that had been 1/3 eaten, and then carefully re-sealed into the bag. I assume that was a raccoon. (The teeth marks were the right size for a raccoon, as well as the odd behavior.)
>>>
>>> Ginda Fisher
>>> eastern MA, zone 6
>>> __________________
>>> nafex mailing list
>>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
>>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>>>
>> Ginda,
>>
>> I found just cutting slits in the bottom of the zip-locks allowed for drainage and perhaps provided less of an entry point
>> for the insects. The problem with zip-locks is at the fruit stem where bugs like aphids would enter. I didn't want to put
>> in the effort, but some people add a twist tie to complete that seal at the fruit stem.
>>
>> Your critters seem more aggressive than mine. Mine mainly went for the fruit on the ground. The bags did slow them down
>> a bit. My solution for the critters was to trap and remove them. A big job, at first, but then the population seemed to
>> subside with subsequent seasons.
>>
>> Some of my semi-dwarfs produced a huge amount of fruit (over 200 fruits after thinning), so putting on these bags became
>> a chore. My solution is to go for smaller trees like on M27 as I don't need huge crops. I also find that sticky traps are very
>> effective, even without lures. I will use the bags this year, but only on my prized fruits. I may also do an occasional spray
>> if time and opportunity present itself.
>>
>> Sherwin
>>
>> ---
>>
The nylon approach has been tried and not been too
successful. The nylon breaks down in the sun.
> I have been using bags on high value fruit where there aren't more than 30 or so for many years.
>
> Generally I use wooden clothespins to fix them.
>
> What I use is fiberglass window screening cut with scissors into double layer pockets and stapled with office stapler on 3 sides. These are very durable, easy to make, very cheap, and last a very long time. If birds are an issue, you need to get them on before color changes. Fiberglass window screening is about $6 or so for 50 ft by 4 ft. Maybe 16 double layer pockets. You can use a hacksaw on the roles of screening.
>
> This year I am also trying something new— dark "knee-high" women's short stockings also pinned with clothespins. These also are very cheap—$5 or so for around 50. Don't know how long they will last, but should keep off everything and they dry very quickly and very light weight.
>
> Bob Randall
>
>
> "Share What You Grow and What You Know!"
>
> Bob Randall, Ph.D.
> YearRoundGardening@comcast.net
> http://yearroundgardening.me
> home/office: 713-661-9737
> cell 832-317-8983
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> On Apr 1, 2016, at 1:23 AM, sherwin <sherwindu@att.net> wrote:
>>
>> On 3/31/2016 10:53 PM, Ginda Fisher wrote:
>>> On Mar 31, 2016, at 11:41 AM, Jono Neiger wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi
>>>> Im wondering what people think of bagging individual fruit as in using
>>>> "fruit bags" or "Japanese fruit bags"
>>>>
>>>> Ive thought of trying it but havent gotten around to it. And I have several
>>>> clients looking for them. Any sources?
>>>>
>>>> (sorry if this is a repeat topic- I didnt search the archives)
>>>>
>>>> thanks
>>>>
>>>> Jono
>>> I also used zip-lock baggies to protect apples for a couple of years. I cut off a corner of each bag, so they wouldn't fill with water. This did a good job of keeping out insects. More importantly, it did a surprisingly good job of keep out cedar apple rust. I have more problems with rust than with insects, due to my location and there not being many domestic apples around.
>>>
>>> But, the local critters learned that bags meant yummy food, and they selectively ate all the bagged fruit (but didn't notice all the unbagged fruit.) So I gave up.
>>>
>>> Mostly it was squirrels, which just chewed through the bags to get at the apples. But the funniest was when I found a an apple that had been 1/3 eaten, and then carefully re-sealed into the bag. I assume that was a raccoon. (The teeth marks were the right size for a raccoon, as well as the odd behavior.)
>>>
>>> Ginda Fisher
>>> eastern MA, zone 6
>>> __________________
>>> nafex mailing list
>>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
>>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>>>
>> Ginda,
>>
>> I found just cutting slits in the bottom of the zip-locks allowed for drainage and perhaps provided less of an entry point
>> for the insects. The problem with zip-locks is at the fruit stem where bugs like aphids would enter. I didn't want to put
>> in the effort, but some people add a twist tie to complete that seal at the fruit stem.
>>
>> Your critters seem more aggressive than mine. Mine mainly went for the fruit on the ground. The bags did slow them down
>> a bit. My solution for the critters was to trap and remove them. A big job, at first, but then the population seemed to
>> subside with subsequent seasons.
>>
>> Some of my semi-dwarfs produced a huge amount of fruit (over 200 fruits after thinning), so putting on these bags became
>> a chore. My solution is to go for smaller trees like on M27 as I don't need huge crops. I also find that sticky traps are very
>> effective, even without lures. I will use the bags this year, but only on my prized fruits. I may also do an occasional spray
>> if time and opportunity present itself.
>>
>> Sherwin
>>
>> ---
>>
The nylon approach has been tried and not been too
successful. The nylon breaks down in the sun.
I'm not sure if the mesh bags sold were fiberglass, or
not. However, I found the more aggressive insects
like Apple Maggot would go through those. Something to
consider. I like the ziplock bags with slits cut
at the bottom for rain drainage. They do need a
fastener at the fruit stem to do a complete seal.
Sherwin
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] fruit bags for organic production
I have been using bags on high value fruit where there aren't more than 30 or so for many years.
Generally I use wooden clothespins to fix them.
What I use is fiberglass window screening cut with scissors into double layer pockets and stapled with office stapler on 3 sides. These are very durable, easy to make, very cheap, and last a very long time. If birds are an issue, you need to get them on before color changes. Fiberglass window screening is about $6 or so for 50 ft by 4 ft. Maybe 16 double layer pockets. You can use a hacksaw on the roles of screening.
This year I am also trying something new— dark "knee-high" women's short stockings also pinned with clothespins. These also are very cheap—$5 or so for around 50. Don't know how long they will last, but should keep off everything and they dry very quickly and very light weight.
Bob Randall
"Share What You Grow and What You Know!"
Bob Randall, Ph.D.
YearRoundGardening@comcast.net
http://yearroundgardening.me
home/office: 713-661-9737
cell 832-317-8983
> On Apr 1, 2016, at 1:23 AM, sherwin <sherwindu@att.net> wrote:
>
> On 3/31/2016 10:53 PM, Ginda Fisher wrote:
>> On Mar 31, 2016, at 11:41 AM, Jono Neiger wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>> Im wondering what people think of bagging individual fruit as in using
>>> "fruit bags" or "Japanese fruit bags"
>>>
>>> Ive thought of trying it but havent gotten around to it. And I have several
>>> clients looking for them. Any sources?
>>>
>>> (sorry if this is a repeat topic- I didnt search the archives)
>>>
>>> thanks
>>>
>>> Jono
>> I also used zip-lock baggies to protect apples for a couple of years. I cut off a corner of each bag, so they wouldn't fill with water. This did a good job of keeping out insects. More importantly, it did a surprisingly good job of keep out cedar apple rust. I have more problems with rust than with insects, due to my location and there not being many domestic apples around.
>>
>> But, the local critters learned that bags meant yummy food, and they selectively ate all the bagged fruit (but didn't notice all the unbagged fruit.) So I gave up.
>>
>> Mostly it was squirrels, which just chewed through the bags to get at the apples. But the funniest was when I found a an apple that had been 1/3 eaten, and then carefully re-sealed into the bag. I assume that was a raccoon. (The teeth marks were the right size for a raccoon, as well as the odd behavior.)
>>
>> Ginda Fisher
>> eastern MA, zone 6
>> __________________
>> nafex mailing list
>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>>
> Ginda,
>
> I found just cutting slits in the bottom of the zip-locks allowed for drainage and perhaps provided less of an entry point
> for the insects. The problem with zip-locks is at the fruit stem where bugs like aphids would enter. I didn't want to put
> in the effort, but some people add a twist tie to complete that seal at the fruit stem.
>
> Your critters seem more aggressive than mine. Mine mainly went for the fruit on the ground. The bags did slow them down
> a bit. My solution for the critters was to trap and remove them. A big job, at first, but then the population seemed to
> subside with subsequent seasons.
>
> Some of my semi-dwarfs produced a huge amount of fruit (over 200 fruits after thinning), so putting on these bags became
> a chore. My solution is to go for smaller trees like on M27 as I don't need huge crops. I also find that sticky traps are very
> effective, even without lures. I will use the bags this year, but only on my prized fruits. I may also do an occasional spray
> if time and opportunity present itself.
>
> Sherwin
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Sunday, April 24, 2016
Re: [nafex] nurse limbs
My experience is that the question of nurse limbs relates more to size
that to species. On larger caliper rootstock (anything over an inch
maybe) a nurse limb is a must. Just too much shock to the root
otherwise. On smaller stuff, the nurse limb is generally not necessary
(in my experience....) I do a lot of "field grating" persimmons. Smaller
stuff always does fine without a nurse limb. I have never noticed that
nurse limbs do much harm either. The "sapping away energy" has not been
a problem in my experience. On transplanted rootstock, I will sometimes
leave live material from the rootstock on there, to help support the
root, for the first summer at least (on a spring graft). You HAVE to
take that away next year, and stay on top of it thereafter.
two cents
alexis
On 04/24/2016 02:40 PM, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:
> Send nafex mailing list submissions to
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> nafex-owner@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of nafex digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Nurse limbs - which grafting situations need them, where are
> they counterproductive? (Elizabeth Hilborn)
> 2. Re: Nurse limbs - which grafting situations need them, where
> are they counterproductive? (Jerry Lehman)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 13:27:47 -0400
> From: Elizabeth Hilborn <ehilborn@mebtel.net>
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: [nafex] Nurse limbs - which grafting situations need them,
> where are they counterproductive?
> Message-ID: <571D0213.6030801@mebtel.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> I have had good experiences using nurse limbs when grafting to apple and
> pear root sprouts. However, now I am grafting to native persimmon
> rootsprouts and wonder if nurse limbs will be counterproductive by
> drawing too much energy and nutrients away from my graft.
>
> Does any one have experience using this technique and would consider it
> beneficial when grafting to persimmon, pawpaw or hickory?
>
> Betsy Hilborn
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:39:50 -0400
> From: Jerry Lehman <jwlehmantree@gmail.com>
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [nafex] Nurse limbs - which grafting situations need
> them, where are they counterproductive?
> Message-ID: <571D12F6.60702@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> On 4/24/2016 1:27 PM, Elizabeth Hilborn wrote:
>> I have had good experiences using nurse limbs when grafting to apple
>> and pear root sprouts. However, now I am grafting to native persimmon
>> rootsprouts and wonder if nurse limbs will be counterproductive by
>> drawing too much energy and nutrients away from my graft.
>>
>> Does any one have experience using this technique and would consider
>> it beneficial when grafting to persimmon, pawpaw or hickory?
> Hello Betsy,
>
> I never use nurse limbs for the very reason that you stated above, I cut
> everything off below the graft. And on all species.
>
> There was a member of the Indiana Nut and Fruit Growers whose name was
> Jim Wood who had many nut trees, especially pecan. Because of the
> problem of bleeding when grafting nut trees he developed what he called
> the " Sap Stopper Graft. " He did a lot of grafting on pecan trees 6
> inches in diameter and more. What he did was cut about half way through
> a six-inch tree for example then push the top over on the ground so that
> was still attached. This seemed to divert the sap from the cut area
> which he then grafted. Then after the graft was well-established and
> growing he would finish cutting off the half that was now laying on the
> ground. I've seen some of his work and it seemed like is a viable method.
>
> Jerry
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of nafex Digest, Vol 178, Issue 2
> *************************************
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
that to species. On larger caliper rootstock (anything over an inch
maybe) a nurse limb is a must. Just too much shock to the root
otherwise. On smaller stuff, the nurse limb is generally not necessary
(in my experience....) I do a lot of "field grating" persimmons. Smaller
stuff always does fine without a nurse limb. I have never noticed that
nurse limbs do much harm either. The "sapping away energy" has not been
a problem in my experience. On transplanted rootstock, I will sometimes
leave live material from the rootstock on there, to help support the
root, for the first summer at least (on a spring graft). You HAVE to
take that away next year, and stay on top of it thereafter.
two cents
alexis
On 04/24/2016 02:40 PM, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:
> Send nafex mailing list submissions to
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> nafex-owner@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of nafex digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Nurse limbs - which grafting situations need them, where are
> they counterproductive? (Elizabeth Hilborn)
> 2. Re: Nurse limbs - which grafting situations need them, where
> are they counterproductive? (Jerry Lehman)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 13:27:47 -0400
> From: Elizabeth Hilborn <ehilborn@mebtel.net>
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: [nafex] Nurse limbs - which grafting situations need them,
> where are they counterproductive?
> Message-ID: <571D0213.6030801@mebtel.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> I have had good experiences using nurse limbs when grafting to apple and
> pear root sprouts. However, now I am grafting to native persimmon
> rootsprouts and wonder if nurse limbs will be counterproductive by
> drawing too much energy and nutrients away from my graft.
>
> Does any one have experience using this technique and would consider it
> beneficial when grafting to persimmon, pawpaw or hickory?
>
> Betsy Hilborn
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:39:50 -0400
> From: Jerry Lehman <jwlehmantree@gmail.com>
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [nafex] Nurse limbs - which grafting situations need
> them, where are they counterproductive?
> Message-ID: <571D12F6.60702@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> On 4/24/2016 1:27 PM, Elizabeth Hilborn wrote:
>> I have had good experiences using nurse limbs when grafting to apple
>> and pear root sprouts. However, now I am grafting to native persimmon
>> rootsprouts and wonder if nurse limbs will be counterproductive by
>> drawing too much energy and nutrients away from my graft.
>>
>> Does any one have experience using this technique and would consider
>> it beneficial when grafting to persimmon, pawpaw or hickory?
> Hello Betsy,
>
> I never use nurse limbs for the very reason that you stated above, I cut
> everything off below the graft. And on all species.
>
> There was a member of the Indiana Nut and Fruit Growers whose name was
> Jim Wood who had many nut trees, especially pecan. Because of the
> problem of bleeding when grafting nut trees he developed what he called
> the " Sap Stopper Graft. " He did a lot of grafting on pecan trees 6
> inches in diameter and more. What he did was cut about half way through
> a six-inch tree for example then push the top over on the ground so that
> was still attached. This seemed to divert the sap from the cut area
> which he then grafted. Then after the graft was well-established and
> growing he would finish cutting off the half that was now laying on the
> ground. I've seen some of his work and it seemed like is a viable method.
>
> Jerry
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of nafex Digest, Vol 178, Issue 2
> *************************************
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] Nurse limbs - which grafting situations need them, where are they counterproductive?
On 4/24/2016 1:27 PM, Elizabeth Hilborn wrote:
> I have had good experiences using nurse limbs when grafting to apple
> and pear root sprouts. However, now I am grafting to native persimmon
> rootsprouts and wonder if nurse limbs will be counterproductive by
> drawing too much energy and nutrients away from my graft.
>
> Does any one have experience using this technique and would consider
> it beneficial when grafting to persimmon, pawpaw or hickory?
Hello Betsy,
I never use nurse limbs for the very reason that you stated above, I cut
everything off below the graft. And on all species.
There was a member of the Indiana Nut and Fruit Growers whose name was
Jim Wood who had many nut trees, especially pecan. Because of the
problem of bleeding when grafting nut trees he developed what he called
the " Sap Stopper Graft. " He did a lot of grafting on pecan trees 6
inches in diameter and more. What he did was cut about half way through
a six-inch tree for example then push the top over on the ground so that
was still attached. This seemed to divert the sap from the cut area
which he then grafted. Then after the graft was well-established and
growing he would finish cutting off the half that was now laying on the
ground. I've seen some of his work and it seemed like is a viable method.
Jerry
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> I have had good experiences using nurse limbs when grafting to apple
> and pear root sprouts. However, now I am grafting to native persimmon
> rootsprouts and wonder if nurse limbs will be counterproductive by
> drawing too much energy and nutrients away from my graft.
>
> Does any one have experience using this technique and would consider
> it beneficial when grafting to persimmon, pawpaw or hickory?
Hello Betsy,
I never use nurse limbs for the very reason that you stated above, I cut
everything off below the graft. And on all species.
There was a member of the Indiana Nut and Fruit Growers whose name was
Jim Wood who had many nut trees, especially pecan. Because of the
problem of bleeding when grafting nut trees he developed what he called
the " Sap Stopper Graft. " He did a lot of grafting on pecan trees 6
inches in diameter and more. What he did was cut about half way through
a six-inch tree for example then push the top over on the ground so that
was still attached. This seemed to divert the sap from the cut area
which he then grafted. Then after the graft was well-established and
growing he would finish cutting off the half that was now laying on the
ground. I've seen some of his work and it seemed like is a viable method.
Jerry
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
[nafex] Nurse limbs - which grafting situations need them, where are they counterproductive?
I have had good experiences using nurse limbs when grafting to apple and
pear root sprouts. However, now I am grafting to native persimmon
rootsprouts and wonder if nurse limbs will be counterproductive by
drawing too much energy and nutrients away from my graft.
Does any one have experience using this technique and would consider it
beneficial when grafting to persimmon, pawpaw or hickory?
Betsy Hilborn
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
pear root sprouts. However, now I am grafting to native persimmon
rootsprouts and wonder if nurse limbs will be counterproductive by
drawing too much energy and nutrients away from my graft.
Does any one have experience using this technique and would consider it
beneficial when grafting to persimmon, pawpaw or hickory?
Betsy Hilborn
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Thursday, April 21, 2016
[nafex] Looking for Summer Budwood
Hi,
I'm looking for some special varieties of stone fruit budwood that I can use
this summer. I'm specifically looking for sources for pluots, plumcots,
apriums,
or any other of these combination fruits. Also, certain plums would be
of interest.
I have searched the web, but most of the larger scion suppliers have
shut down
for the season.
Sherwin Dubren
Morton Grove, IL
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
I'm looking for some special varieties of stone fruit budwood that I can use
this summer. I'm specifically looking for sources for pluots, plumcots,
apriums,
or any other of these combination fruits. Also, certain plums would be
of interest.
I have searched the web, but most of the larger scion suppliers have
shut down
for the season.
Sherwin Dubren
Morton Grove, IL
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Saturday, April 16, 2016
[nafex] Des Pommes & des Hommes
Des Pommes & des Hommes
http://hommespommes.fr/
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
http://hommespommes.fr/
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Monday, April 11, 2016
Re: [nafex] nematodes
It was a few years ago. My memory is that I did a bunch of research and
mixed a couple types, but I don't remember now what the mixture was.
The application instructions were pretty specific. I felt like I had a
hard time distributing them in an appropriate manner. Seemed like
getting them mixed/ washed into the soil was a big issue. If you just
spray them on top, things dry out and I imagine they die.
Alexis
On 04/10/2016 06:45 PM, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:
> Send nafex mailing list submissions to
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> nafex-owner@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of nafex digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Beneficial Nematodes (Elizabeth Hilborn)
> 2. to Alan (and of course all) (fuwa fuwa usagi)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 13:14:42 -0400
> From: Elizabeth Hilborn <ehilborn@mebtel.net>
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [nafex] Beneficial Nematodes
> Message-ID: <570A8A02.70002@mebtel.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> On 4/10/2016 10:57 AM, alexis wrote:
>
> I tried them. Didn't seem to help at all. It was a dry year. My
> understanding is that they are sensitive to moisture. Not sure, but they
> didn't help my curcs at all.
> Alexis
>
>
>
> Alexis, did you use the Steinernema riobrave specifically? If so, where
> did you find it?
>
> *Betsy*
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 15:45:05 -0700
> From: "fuwa fuwa usagi" <fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com>
> To: "mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit
> Experimenters" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: [nafex] to Alan (and of course all)
> Message-ID: <20160410154505.E76B2D80@m0087791.ppops.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Alan,
>
> A year or two back you made a generalized comment about older strains of Golden Delicious you had access to that had, although you did not phrase it this way, superior flavor when compared to the more muted forms commonly available today.
>
> I am very curious to know how you feel Ambrosia stacks up to your older Golden Delicious strains and also where you would put Razor Russet and Grimes Golden.
>
> Your fluffy friend,
>
> tfb
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> The Free Email with so much more!
> =====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of nafex Digest, Vol 176, Issue 7
> *************************************
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
mixed a couple types, but I don't remember now what the mixture was.
The application instructions were pretty specific. I felt like I had a
hard time distributing them in an appropriate manner. Seemed like
getting them mixed/ washed into the soil was a big issue. If you just
spray them on top, things dry out and I imagine they die.
Alexis
On 04/10/2016 06:45 PM, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:
> Send nafex mailing list submissions to
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> nafex-owner@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of nafex digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Beneficial Nematodes (Elizabeth Hilborn)
> 2. to Alan (and of course all) (fuwa fuwa usagi)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 13:14:42 -0400
> From: Elizabeth Hilborn <ehilborn@mebtel.net>
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [nafex] Beneficial Nematodes
> Message-ID: <570A8A02.70002@mebtel.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> On 4/10/2016 10:57 AM, alexis wrote:
>
> I tried them. Didn't seem to help at all. It was a dry year. My
> understanding is that they are sensitive to moisture. Not sure, but they
> didn't help my curcs at all.
> Alexis
>
>
>
> Alexis, did you use the Steinernema riobrave specifically? If so, where
> did you find it?
>
> *Betsy*
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2016 15:45:05 -0700
> From: "fuwa fuwa usagi" <fuwafuwausagi@muchomail.com>
> To: "mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit
> Experimenters" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: [nafex] to Alan (and of course all)
> Message-ID: <20160410154505.E76B2D80@m0087791.ppops.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Alan,
>
> A year or two back you made a generalized comment about older strains of Golden Delicious you had access to that had, although you did not phrase it this way, superior flavor when compared to the more muted forms commonly available today.
>
> I am very curious to know how you feel Ambrosia stacks up to your older Golden Delicious strains and also where you would put Razor Russet and Grimes Golden.
>
> Your fluffy friend,
>
> tfb
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> The Free Email with so much more!
> =====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of nafex Digest, Vol 176, Issue 7
> *************************************
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] Old strains of Y. Delicious
Alan,
Thank you for the reply. I found it interesting.
Maybe others care to share their thoughts.
fluffy
--- alandhaigh@gmail.com wrote:
From: Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [nafex] Old strains of Y. Delicious
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 05:13:40 -0400
"I am very curious to know how you feel Ambrosia stacks up to your older
Golden Delicious strains and also where you would put Razor Russet and
Grimes Golden."
I don't have much to answer this question as I've never eaten Ambrosia,
Razor Russet or Grimes Golden, although I grow Grimes Golden as a nursery
tree- it is clearly not terribly precocious. I'm not even especially a fan
of old strain Yellow Delicious, although I consider it to be a very good
apple- just not one I reach for. Goldrush pretty much fills that slot in
later winter when it mellows into a crunchier and more highly flavored
Yellow Delicious type. But I like it as much when it is tarter earlier in
the season.
My favorite old time apple last season was Esopus Spitzenberg from a site
where it got up to 21 brix. Obviously, I'm inclined to apples that have
some acid to go with its sugar. My palate is jaded.
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
_____________________________________________________________
The Free Email with so much more!
=====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Thank you for the reply. I found it interesting.
Maybe others care to share their thoughts.
fluffy
--- alandhaigh@gmail.com wrote:
From: Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [nafex] Old strains of Y. Delicious
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2016 05:13:40 -0400
"I am very curious to know how you feel Ambrosia stacks up to your older
Golden Delicious strains and also where you would put Razor Russet and
Grimes Golden."
I don't have much to answer this question as I've never eaten Ambrosia,
Razor Russet or Grimes Golden, although I grow Grimes Golden as a nursery
tree- it is clearly not terribly precocious. I'm not even especially a fan
of old strain Yellow Delicious, although I consider it to be a very good
apple- just not one I reach for. Goldrush pretty much fills that slot in
later winter when it mellows into a crunchier and more highly flavored
Yellow Delicious type. But I like it as much when it is tarter earlier in
the season.
My favorite old time apple last season was Esopus Spitzenberg from a site
where it got up to 21 brix. Obviously, I'm inclined to apples that have
some acid to go with its sugar. My palate is jaded.
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
_____________________________________________________________
The Free Email with so much more!
=====> http://www.MuchoMail.com <=====
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] I need your opinion
Feedback about the nursery in Scotland with Cloudberry seeds for sale:
http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/grapevine/feeling-fruity/cloudberry_41365.html
"Can recommend Poyntzfield Herbs. I bought my Cloudberry, Crowberry and
Blaeberry from them."
Aug 2008, Location: Giffnock
- in response to:
"Yes, google is indeed your friend. Found this lot in Scotland who will
either sell you a plant for £3.40 or seeds for £1.80" - Poyntzfield Herb
Nursery - Results for cloudberry
<http://www.poyntzfieldherbs.co.uk/catalogue2.asp?searchterm=cloudberry>
Jun 2006, Location: Warrington, Cheshire
On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 10:13 PM, Jim Fruth <jimfruth@charter.net> wrote:
> Thank you
>
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Lawrence London
> Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 12:21 AM
> To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> Subject: Re: [nafex] I need your opinion
>
> http://www.swedishfood.com/cloudberries
> If you want to try you can buy cloudberry plants or seeds from Poyntzfield
> Herb Nursery
> <http://www.poyntzfieldherbs.co.uk/catalogue2.asp?searchterm=cloudberry>
> on
> the Black Isle in Scotland. They provide a mail order service, including
> delivering overseas.
> http://www.poyntzfieldherbs.co.uk/catalogue2.asp?searchterm=cloudberry
> *CLOUDBERRY* (*Oidhreag*) * Rubus chamaemorus** P * 10cm. Native white
> flowered and orange berried fruit, for jams, jellies and drinks. Enjoys
> acidic moist conditions.Usually available in the autumn and spring. Sow the
> seeds outside in the autumn and cover with grit Plant - £3.90
> Seeds - £2.00
>
> Great article on cloudberries (multesyltetøy)(Rubus chamaemorus
> "cloudberry")
> http://mylittlenorway.com/2011/07/guide-to-cloudberries/
> Seeds:
>
>
> Post by billw on Jan 19, 2014 at 9:06pm
> There is more than one thing called a Cloudberry. Rubus chamaemorus? They
> need a cool summer and a winter with plenty of chill hours and acid soil. I
> have seed.
> I can also supply cuttings but those work better in the fall.
> Read more:
>
> http://alanbishop.proboards.com/thread/7718/cloudberries-cuttings-seeds-sources#ixzz45OjyhfAr
>
> http://alanbishop.proboards.com/thread/7718/cloudberries-cuttings-seeds-sources
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 12:21 AM, Jim Fruth <jimfruth@charter.net> wrote:
>
> I have been searching for Cloudberry seeds for years and I finally found
>> them for sale...online....in Russia. If I order them, what is the
>> likelihood of getting them?
>>
>> Jim Fruth
>> Pequot Lakes, MN
>> __________________
>> nafex mailing list
>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
>> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Lawrence F. London
> lfljvenaura@gmail.com
> https://sites.google.com/site/avantgeared/
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
--
Lawrence F. London
lfljvenaura@gmail.com
https://sites.google.com/site/avantgeared/
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
[nafex] Old strains of Y. Delicious
"I am very curious to know how you feel Ambrosia stacks up to your older
Golden Delicious strains and also where you would put Razor Russet and
Grimes Golden."
I don't have much to answer this question as I've never eaten Ambrosia,
Razor Russet or Grimes Golden, although I grow Grimes Golden as a nursery
tree- it is clearly not terribly precocious. I'm not even especially a fan
of old strain Yellow Delicious, although I consider it to be a very good
apple- just not one I reach for. Goldrush pretty much fills that slot in
later winter when it mellows into a crunchier and more highly flavored
Yellow Delicious type. But I like it as much when it is tarter earlier in
the season.
My favorite old time apple last season was Esopus Spitzenberg from a site
where it got up to 21 brix. Obviously, I'm inclined to apples that have
some acid to go with its sugar. My palate is jaded.
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Golden Delicious strains and also where you would put Razor Russet and
Grimes Golden."
I don't have much to answer this question as I've never eaten Ambrosia,
Razor Russet or Grimes Golden, although I grow Grimes Golden as a nursery
tree- it is clearly not terribly precocious. I'm not even especially a fan
of old strain Yellow Delicious, although I consider it to be a very good
apple- just not one I reach for. Goldrush pretty much fills that slot in
later winter when it mellows into a crunchier and more highly flavored
Yellow Delicious type. But I like it as much when it is tarter earlier in
the season.
My favorite old time apple last season was Esopus Spitzenberg from a site
where it got up to 21 brix. Obviously, I'm inclined to apples that have
some acid to go with its sugar. My palate is jaded.
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Sunday, April 10, 2016
Re: [nafex] I need your opinion
Thanks a bunch Nathan
-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Wilson
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2016 11:28 PM
To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
Subject: Re: [nafex] I need your opinion
http://www.twiningvinegarden.com:80/Rubus-chamaemorus-seeds-p/rubus-cham.htm=
I don't know about russia, but what about Twining Vine in BC?
On Sunday, April 10, 2016, Jim Fruth <jimfruth@charter.net> wrote:
> I have been searching for Cloudberry seeds for years and I finally found
them for sale...online....in Russia. If I order them, what is the
likelihood of getting them?
>
> Jim Fruth
> Pequot Lakes, MN
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Wilson
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2016 11:28 PM
To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
Subject: Re: [nafex] I need your opinion
http://www.twiningvinegarden.com:80/Rubus-chamaemorus-seeds-p/rubus-cham.htm=
I don't know about russia, but what about Twining Vine in BC?
On Sunday, April 10, 2016, Jim Fruth <jimfruth@charter.net> wrote:
> I have been searching for Cloudberry seeds for years and I finally found
them for sale...online....in Russia. If I order them, what is the
likelihood of getting them?
>
> Jim Fruth
> Pequot Lakes, MN
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
Re: [nafex] I need your opinion
Thank you
-----Original Message-----
From: Lawrence London
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 12:21 AM
To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
Subject: Re: [nafex] I need your opinion
http://www.swedishfood.com/cloudberries
If you want to try you can buy cloudberry plants or seeds from Poyntzfield
Herb Nursery
<http://www.poyntzfieldherbs.co.uk/catalogue2.asp?searchterm=cloudberry> on
the Black Isle in Scotland. They provide a mail order service, including
delivering overseas.
http://www.poyntzfieldherbs.co.uk/catalogue2.asp?searchterm=cloudberry
*CLOUDBERRY* (*Oidhreag*) * Rubus chamaemorus** P * 10cm. Native white
flowered and orange berried fruit, for jams, jellies and drinks. Enjoys
acidic moist conditions.Usually available in the autumn and spring. Sow the
seeds outside in the autumn and cover with grit Plant - £3.90
Seeds - £2.00
Great article on cloudberries (multesyltetøy)(Rubus chamaemorus
"cloudberry")
http://mylittlenorway.com/2011/07/guide-to-cloudberries/
Seeds:
Post by billw on Jan 19, 2014 at 9:06pm
There is more than one thing called a Cloudberry. Rubus chamaemorus? They
need a cool summer and a winter with plenty of chill hours and acid soil. I
have seed.
I can also supply cuttings but those work better in the fall.
Read more:
http://alanbishop.proboards.com/thread/7718/cloudberries-cuttings-seeds-sources#ixzz45OjyhfAr
http://alanbishop.proboards.com/thread/7718/cloudberries-cuttings-seeds-sources
On Sun, Apr 10, 2016 at 12:21 AM, Jim Fruth <jimfruth@charter.net> wrote:
> I have been searching for Cloudberry seeds for years and I finally found
> them for sale...online....in Russia. If I order them, what is the
> likelihood of getting them?
>
> Jim Fruth
> Pequot Lakes, MN
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
--
Lawrence F. London
lfljvenaura@gmail.com
https://sites.google.com/site/avantgeared/
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
__________________
nafex mailing list
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex