Re: [nafex] very good news

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 11:11 PM, <colleendaly@videotron.ca> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> My dear friend I've got such a good news for you, just take a look at
>

Has been unsubbed until she clears the virus out of her computer.
Don't click on any links in the message sent by the hacker.


--
Lawrence F. London
lfljvenaura@gmail.com
https://sites.google.com/site/avantgeared/
https://ello.co/lflondon
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[nafex] very good news

Hi,

My dear friend I've got such a good news for you, just take a look at <http://sluryhithu.jcwgroup.com/lncskcnw>

Hope this helps, colleendaly@videotron.ca

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[nafex] no mulberries this year

Last year I decided some of these mulberry weed trees have got to go. I wanted to check their blossoms this spring and remove at least a few males, and later check the fruits on the females. The 27 degree night (maybe a little colder in my microclimate) damaged some of the males, and I'm seeing no female flowers.

Also, the freeze hit wine grapes hard, but I see lots of flower buds on the recovering growth of wild grapes.

tc, s WI
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[nafex] winter hardiness question

I've had an apple tree mostly die last winter, and I doubt it will fully recover. It was growing well, in some of my better soil, a few years old but not yet making fruit, a known hardy variety on a possibly not as hardy rootstock. I see now it has a vertical crack in the trunk which isn't fresh and I suspect happened in a previous bitter winter.

Isn't this supposed to kill a tree right away? How many years can a tree last with this damage? Did it suffer as much damage from the too mild 2015-16 winter?

Tanis Cuff, s WI, deerflies and ticks and mosquitos all active but I still have a lot of work to do
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Re: [nafex] uh....my grafts...

Cut the blossom's stems ASAP with a new sharp razor the sharpest little scissors you have. As soon as the petals fall the stems get tougher.

The buds might not grow much this year, but should next year.




On Saturday, May 21, 2016 2:38 PM, ROBERT W JUDY A <hartmansfruit@msn.com> wrote:

tfb,
I have had that happen a lot of times. I try not to collect scionwood that
have fruit buds on them but if it does it will bloom and then produce the
vegetative growth. It just takes energy to do that but as soon as the
flowers or fruit forms you can pinch or cut it off. Just be careful that
you don't pull hard enough and pull the bud off or damage it. The Jonagold
apple is notorious for that.
Bob
Western Washington

-----Original Message-----
From: fuwa fuwa usagi
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 10:59 AM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [nafex] uh....my grafts...

Gang,
So I have a new one. For whatever reason, this year, a number of the buds
on my grafts produced flowers. Since I did a lot of single bud grafting am I
out of luck or can they produce vegetative growth? remmeber I am concerned
about the single bud ones.

Sign me a rather puzzled rabbit.

tfb

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Re: [nafex] rooting from storage callus

Thanks guys. Jerry, sorry! Apple & pear, names mostly forgotten and chance-seedlings. Good info re temperature. Scionwood got stored this winter in the household refrig. Also, S WI had an off-n-on winter which has me wondering if stuff ever went entirely dormant or woke up too soon. But the refrig is probably the main ingredient.

I've been struggling with varieties which don't seem to like any rootstock, so I might try own-root.

On Saturday, May 21, 2016 10:27 AM, Jerry Lehman <jwlehmantree@gmail.com> wrote:

On 5/21/2016 12:12 AM, fuwa fuwa usagi wrote:
> It depends a great, great deal on the variety. Milam roots easily from cuttings.
>
> Some rootstocks also root very easily. M27 for example. The rootstock itself will root where it touches the ground and along the length of the stem is you bury it. And callous pieces root about as well as black currant cuttings.
>
> If you are going to do this, I would consider watering with willow water. Not sure if it a bunch of woo, but it seems to work miracles for me. But then I am a statistical singleton.
>
> Regards...
>
> tfb
>
>
> As I do my grafting I notice that some of the scionwood has formed a
> nice ring of callus tissue at the bottom. If I were to pot these for
> rooting, would they grow? If so, how many growing seasons until they

> make trees suitable for planting out?

The fluffy one is right. Please permit me to add my $.02 worth.

You didn't say the species of your wood which makes a huge difference.
But the observation that I'd like to throw in is if you're scion wood
calloused you may be storing it too warm. Also forming callus takes
energy out of the scion wood and in all likelihood will reduce the
amount of successes you will have grafting it. Store your scion wood as
close to 32 as you can get your storage unit, I suspect your
refrigerator is set at about 45°, which is too warm. Just checked the
temperature gauge in my refrigerator a few days back and it said 28° .
The water jugs I keep in there to reduce the cycle times was not frozen,
however frost does often form in my bags of scion wood and I've not seen
any indication that it hurts the scions.

Jerry Lehman

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Re: [nafex] no peaches this year :-(

Yes!
I have at least 3 or 4 plants of it, grafted onto cockspur hawthorn
understock. Gave one to a friend who lives on Lake Barkley on this side of
Land Between the Lakes - she'd seen an episode of 'Duck Dynasty' where Phil
Robinson was showing his grandkids how to harvest mayhaws and make jelly;
she was asking if I knew anything about the trees, and I said, "I've got
one for you".
No fruit yet - but the one planted at the end of my wife's tennis court
might have bloomed this spring- it's on a pretty steep bank, and I've not
looked at it yet this season.

Last two years, rust has taken most of the crop on my mayhaws... may have
to consider spraying. They are small enough, and few enough in numbers
that I might consider that. Anything else here pretty much has to produce
with little to no care - and no spraying. I'm not opposed to spraying,
just don't really have time to do it.

Hope you're doing well. Long cool spring here... feels almost like summer
today, after low temps into the 40s for the last couple of weeks.

Lucky

On Sun, May 22, 2016 at 4:36 PM, <topgun@otelco.net> wrote:

> Lucky: Did you have any luck with the Collossal mayhaw wood I sent to you?
>
> Topgun
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Dr. Lucky Pittman
> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2016 11:35 AM
> To: 'mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters'
> Subject: Re: [nafex] no peaches this year :-(
>
>
> Yikes! Sorry to hear that.
> We escaped any serious damage, so far as I can tell at this point, this
> year.
>
> But I can identify with you... back in 2007, we'd had an inordinately warm
> Feb/March...with almost everything breaking dormancy... then Easter
> arrived,
> with four consecutive nights of temperatures dropping into the 'teens.
> Many plants had 6-10 inches of tender new growth that was killed back.
> Almost all Carpathian walnuts, heartnuts, persimmons were killed back to
> their rootstock - amazingly, though, most of the Asian persimmons I had at
> that time were still dormant. Seedling heartnuts were killed outright.
> Big mature hickories and oaks in my forest were killed back to main trunk.
> Subsequent to the Easter Big Freeze Disaster, we went from May 10 to Nov 30
> with a single 1" rain event... a lot of mature trees succumbed to the
> double-whammy of freeze and drought.
>
> Lucky
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nafex [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of V.
> Michael
> Bove, Jr.
> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2016 10:08 AM
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Subject: [nafex] no peaches this year :-(
>
> The seventies-then-below-zero weather we had in late winter here killed the
> flower buds on all six varieties of our peaches. Plums (myrobalan),
> apricots, apples, and pears all seem to be flowering more or less normally,
> but no idea yet about fruit set.
>
> Anyone else on the list get clobbered? We also lost the flower buds on our
> magnolia tree and forsythia bushes.
>
> Michael Bove
> Teakettle Farm, Z6 (MA/RI border)
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