Sunday, November 19, 2023

Re: [NAFEX] NAFEX Digest, Vol 262, Issue 8

I should have typed that www.growingfruit.org

On Sun, Nov 19, 2023 at 6:57 AM <nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:

> Send NAFEX mailing list submissions to
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>
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>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: NAFEX Digest, Vol 262, Issue 6 (Alan Haigh)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2023 06:55:14 -0500
> From: Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] NAFEX Digest, Vol 262, Issue 6
> Message-ID:
> <CAEGtZJyGoQwRb0bUQA6o=Brsr=
> Ben8m7yPwaGJ--ymsim5jtAA@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Incidentally, isn't it about time to update this forum? It would be much
> more useful if it was put together like this one- www.growingfruit.com
> where topics can be searched easily for years. The format does cost a bit
> of money, but members could chip in.
>
> On Sun, Nov 19, 2023 at 6:51?AM Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > "On the other hand, some varieties take longer than others to go dormant
> > (GoldRush is last in my yard). In that case, spring might be the better
> > choice."
> >
> > I have a bearing age fruit tree nursery and do most of my installations
> in
> > the fall starting during the last couple weeks of Oct. My apples still
> > have leaves here in S. NY and fruit is still firm but I've been
> > transplanting 2.5 inch diameter bare root apple trees for almost a month.
> > I let the wind strip off most of the leaves while transporting them
> without
> > tarp protection- I see no need to wait for full defoliation after decades
> > of doing this. The strongest leaves at shoot tips that remain on the
> trees
> > do not cause dangerous dehydration and may help trees to establish
> somewhat
> > more quickly by pushing immediate root growth in new soil the fall they
> are
> > tramsplanted. I had seen a Cornell research project where trees were dug
> > in Sept and leaves were stripped where survival was fine. Presumably
> most
> > of the energy is already stored in the wood, but how can one tell where
> and
> > how much stored energy goes besides observing results? My earlier fall
> > transplants thrive at least as well as later ones and seem to do somewhat
> > better than spring transplants. This is all based on about 30 years of
> > anecdote.
> >
> > On Sat, Nov 18, 2023 at 11:36?AM <nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Send NAFEX mailing list submissions to
> >> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> >>
> >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >> nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
> >>
> >> You can reach the person managing the list at
> >> nafex-owner@lists.ibiblio.org
> >>
> >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> >> than "Re: Contents of NAFEX digest..."
> >>
> >>
> >> Today's Topics:
> >>
> >> 1. Cloudberry harvest in Finland 1930's-1950's (Lawrence London)
> >> 2. Re: transplanting young apple trees (david liezen)
> >>
> >>
> >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 1
> >> Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2023 11:12:31 -0800
> >> From: Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
> >> To: nafex mailing list at ibiblio <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> >> Subject: [NAFEX] Cloudberry harvest in Finland 1930's-1950's
> >> Message-ID:
> >> <CA+j2Q+BoH65-bfu47jGt-yr0uPq+sUTn+zuvgdRiKQ0uJ727=
> >> A@mail.gmail.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> >>
> >> Woman with a cloudberry bucket
> >> https://www.reddit.com/gallery/17xcewr
> >>
> >>
> https://preview.redd.it/giw0pb33xv0c1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4fe9090b0a161cac5599e7b02ae1b9eea0b93e12
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Lawrence F. London, Jr.
> >> lfljvenaura@gmail.com
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 2
> >> Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2023 16:34:06 +0000
> >> From: david liezen <chandos49@hotmail.com>
> >> To: North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio
> >> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees
> >> Message-ID:
> >> <
> >>
> IA1PR10MB71153EBA4AD9D514473C4287BEB6A@IA1PR10MB7115.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
> >> >
> >>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
> >>
> >> Jacquelyn,
> >> Yes, both will work. Depending on the winter you get, you may find it
> >> easier to re-plant as soon as the tree is dormant & the ground is still
> >> soft. Mulch well. If you have inches of frozen ground in spring, that
> may
> >> also be reason to plant in fall. On the other hand, some varieties take
> >> longer than others to go dormant (GoldRush is last in my yard). In that
> >> case, spring might be the better choice.
> >>
> >> Glad to see you are grafting. That craft is changing my life, for all
> the
> >> apples in back are now from grafts I've made. That was not the original
> >> goal, but learning to graft is so economical & opens so many more
> >> possibilities.
> >>
> >> Dave Liezen
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: NAFEX <nafex-bounces+chandos49=hotmail.com@lists.ibiblio.org> on
> >> behalf of Jacquelyn Kuehn via NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> >> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2023 11:53 AM
> >> To: NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> >> Cc: Jacquelyn Kuehn <jakuehn@verizon.net>
> >> Subject: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees
> >>
> >> I successfully grafted (first successes ever!) some young apple trees in
> >> spring 2022, and some more in spring 2023. They?ve been growing happily
> in
> >> a nursery bed. I?d like to move them to permanent locations. May I do
> that
> >> in fall, after they?re dormant, or should I wait till spring?
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >>
> >> Jacquelyn Kuehn
> >> jakuehn@verizon.net
> >>
> >> >
> >> > __________________
> >> > NAFEX mailing list
> >> > NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> >> > Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> >> > subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> >> > https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > ------------------------------
> >> >
> >> > End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 260, Issue 1
> >> > *************************************
> >>
> >> __________________
> >> NAFEX mailing list
> >> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> >> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> >> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> >> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Subject: Digest Footer
> >>
> >> __________________
> >> NAFEX mailing list
> >> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> >> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> >> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> >> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 262, Issue 6
> >> *************************************
> >>
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> __________________
> NAFEX mailing list
> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 262, Issue 8
> *************************************
>
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Re: [NAFEX] NAFEX Digest, Vol 262, Issue 6

Incidentally, isn't it about time to update this forum? It would be much
more useful if it was put together like this one- www.growingfruit.com
where topics can be searched easily for years. The format does cost a bit
of money, but members could chip in.

On Sun, Nov 19, 2023 at 6:51 AM Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com> wrote:

> "On the other hand, some varieties take longer than others to go dormant
> (GoldRush is last in my yard). In that case, spring might be the better
> choice."
>
> I have a bearing age fruit tree nursery and do most of my installations in
> the fall starting during the last couple weeks of Oct. My apples still
> have leaves here in S. NY and fruit is still firm but I've been
> transplanting 2.5 inch diameter bare root apple trees for almost a month.
> I let the wind strip off most of the leaves while transporting them without
> tarp protection- I see no need to wait for full defoliation after decades
> of doing this. The strongest leaves at shoot tips that remain on the trees
> do not cause dangerous dehydration and may help trees to establish somewhat
> more quickly by pushing immediate root growth in new soil the fall they are
> tramsplanted. I had seen a Cornell research project where trees were dug
> in Sept and leaves were stripped where survival was fine. Presumably most
> of the energy is already stored in the wood, but how can one tell where and
> how much stored energy goes besides observing results? My earlier fall
> transplants thrive at least as well as later ones and seem to do somewhat
> better than spring transplants. This is all based on about 30 years of
> anecdote.
>
> On Sat, Nov 18, 2023 at 11:36 AM <nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:
>
>> Send NAFEX mailing list submissions to
>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> nafex-owner@lists.ibiblio.org
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of NAFEX digest..."
>>
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>> 1. Cloudberry harvest in Finland 1930's-1950's (Lawrence London)
>> 2. Re: transplanting young apple trees (david liezen)
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2023 11:12:31 -0800
>> From: Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
>> To: nafex mailing list at ibiblio <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> Subject: [NAFEX] Cloudberry harvest in Finland 1930's-1950's
>> Message-ID:
>> <CA+j2Q+BoH65-bfu47jGt-yr0uPq+sUTn+zuvgdRiKQ0uJ727=
>> A@mail.gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>>
>> Woman with a cloudberry bucket
>> https://www.reddit.com/gallery/17xcewr
>>
>> https://preview.redd.it/giw0pb33xv0c1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4fe9090b0a161cac5599e7b02ae1b9eea0b93e12
>>
>>
>> --
>> Lawrence F. London, Jr.
>> lfljvenaura@gmail.com
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2023 16:34:06 +0000
>> From: david liezen <chandos49@hotmail.com>
>> To: North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio
>> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees
>> Message-ID:
>> <
>> IA1PR10MB71153EBA4AD9D514473C4287BEB6A@IA1PR10MB7115.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
>> >
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
>>
>> Jacquelyn,
>> Yes, both will work. Depending on the winter you get, you may find it
>> easier to re-plant as soon as the tree is dormant & the ground is still
>> soft. Mulch well. If you have inches of frozen ground in spring, that may
>> also be reason to plant in fall. On the other hand, some varieties take
>> longer than others to go dormant (GoldRush is last in my yard). In that
>> case, spring might be the better choice.
>>
>> Glad to see you are grafting. That craft is changing my life, for all the
>> apples in back are now from grafts I've made. That was not the original
>> goal, but learning to graft is so economical & opens so many more
>> possibilities.
>>
>> Dave Liezen
>> ________________________________
>> From: NAFEX <nafex-bounces+chandos49=hotmail.com@lists.ibiblio.org> on
>> behalf of Jacquelyn Kuehn via NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2023 11:53 AM
>> To: NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>> Cc: Jacquelyn Kuehn <jakuehn@verizon.net>
>> Subject: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees
>>
>> I successfully grafted (first successes ever!) some young apple trees in
>> spring 2022, and some more in spring 2023. They?ve been growing happily in
>> a nursery bed. I?d like to move them to permanent locations. May I do that
>> in fall, after they?re dormant, or should I wait till spring?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>> Jacquelyn Kuehn
>> jakuehn@verizon.net
>>
>> >
>> > __________________
>> > NAFEX mailing list
>> > NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
>> > Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>> > subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
>> > https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>> >
>> >
>> > ------------------------------
>> >
>> > End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 260, Issue 1
>> > *************************************
>>
>> __________________
>> NAFEX mailing list
>> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
>> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Subject: Digest Footer
>>
>> __________________
>> NAFEX mailing list
>> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
>> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 262, Issue 6
>> *************************************
>>
>
__________________
NAFEX mailing list
NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex

Re: [NAFEX] NAFEX Digest, Vol 262, Issue 6

"On the other hand, some varieties take longer than others to go dormant
(GoldRush is last in my yard). In that case, spring might be the better
choice."

I have a bearing age fruit tree nursery and do most of my installations in
the fall starting during the last couple weeks of Oct. My apples still
have leaves here in S. NY and fruit is still firm but I've been
transplanting 2.5 inch diameter bare root apple trees for almost a month.
I let the wind strip off most of the leaves while transporting them without
tarp protection- I see no need to wait for full defoliation after decades
of doing this. The strongest leaves at shoot tips that remain on the trees
do not cause dangerous dehydration and may help trees to establish somewhat
more quickly by pushing immediate root growth in new soil the fall they are
tramsplanted. I had seen a Cornell research project where trees were dug
in Sept and leaves were stripped where survival was fine. Presumably most
of the energy is already stored in the wood, but how can one tell where and
how much stored energy goes besides observing results? My earlier fall
transplants thrive at least as well as later ones and seem to do somewhat
better than spring transplants. This is all based on about 30 years of
anecdote.

On Sat, Nov 18, 2023 at 11:36 AM <nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:

> Send NAFEX mailing list submissions to
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> nafex-owner@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of NAFEX digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Cloudberry harvest in Finland 1930's-1950's (Lawrence London)
> 2. Re: transplanting young apple trees (david liezen)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2023 11:12:31 -0800
> From: Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
> To: nafex mailing list at ibiblio <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: [NAFEX] Cloudberry harvest in Finland 1930's-1950's
> Message-ID:
> <CA+j2Q+BoH65-bfu47jGt-yr0uPq+sUTn+zuvgdRiKQ0uJ727=
> A@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Woman with a cloudberry bucket
> https://www.reddit.com/gallery/17xcewr
>
> https://preview.redd.it/giw0pb33xv0c1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4fe9090b0a161cac5599e7b02ae1b9eea0b93e12
>
>
> --
> Lawrence F. London, Jr.
> lfljvenaura@gmail.com
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2023 16:34:06 +0000
> From: david liezen <chandos49@hotmail.com>
> To: North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees
> Message-ID:
> <
> IA1PR10MB71153EBA4AD9D514473C4287BEB6A@IA1PR10MB7115.namprd10.prod.outlook.com
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
>
> Jacquelyn,
> Yes, both will work. Depending on the winter you get, you may find it
> easier to re-plant as soon as the tree is dormant & the ground is still
> soft. Mulch well. If you have inches of frozen ground in spring, that may
> also be reason to plant in fall. On the other hand, some varieties take
> longer than others to go dormant (GoldRush is last in my yard). In that
> case, spring might be the better choice.
>
> Glad to see you are grafting. That craft is changing my life, for all the
> apples in back are now from grafts I've made. That was not the original
> goal, but learning to graft is so economical & opens so many more
> possibilities.
>
> Dave Liezen
> ________________________________
> From: NAFEX <nafex-bounces+chandos49=hotmail.com@lists.ibiblio.org> on
> behalf of Jacquelyn Kuehn via NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2023 11:53 AM
> To: NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Cc: Jacquelyn Kuehn <jakuehn@verizon.net>
> Subject: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees
>
> I successfully grafted (first successes ever!) some young apple trees in
> spring 2022, and some more in spring 2023. They?ve been growing happily in
> a nursery bed. I?d like to move them to permanent locations. May I do that
> in fall, after they?re dormant, or should I wait till spring?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Jacquelyn Kuehn
> jakuehn@verizon.net
>
> >
> > __________________
> > NAFEX mailing list
> > NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> > Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> > subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> > https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 260, Issue 1
> > *************************************
>
> __________________
> NAFEX mailing list
> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> __________________
> NAFEX mailing list
> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 262, Issue 6
> *************************************
>
__________________
NAFEX mailing list
NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex

Saturday, November 18, 2023

Re: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees

Jacquelyn,
Yes, both will work. Depending on the winter you get, you may find it easier to re-plant as soon as the tree is dormant & the ground is still soft. Mulch well. If you have inches of frozen ground in spring, that may also be reason to plant in fall. On the other hand, some varieties take longer than others to go dormant (GoldRush is last in my yard). In that case, spring might be the better choice.

Glad to see you are grafting. That craft is changing my life, for all the apples in back are now from grafts I've made. That was not the original goal, but learning to graft is so economical & opens so many more possibilities.

Dave Liezen
________________________________
From: NAFEX <nafex-bounces+chandos49=hotmail.com@lists.ibiblio.org> on behalf of Jacquelyn Kuehn via NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2023 11:53 AM
To: NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Cc: Jacquelyn Kuehn <jakuehn@verizon.net>
Subject: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees

I successfully grafted (first successes ever!) some young apple trees in spring 2022, and some more in spring 2023. They've been growing happily in a nursery bed. I'd like to move them to permanent locations. May I do that in fall, after they're dormant, or should I wait till spring?

Thanks.


Jacquelyn Kuehn
jakuehn@verizon.net

>
> __________________
> NAFEX mailing list
> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 260, Issue 1
> *************************************

__________________
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NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
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Wednesday, November 15, 2023

[NAFEX] A Chapel Hill Venture Capitalist is Betting the Farm on Muscadine Grapes, Katahdin Sheep, and 100, 000 Red Wiggler Worms

A Chapel Hill Venture Capitalist is Betting the Farm on Muscadine Grapes,
Katahdin Sheep, and 100,000 Red Wiggler Worms - INDY Week
https://indyweek.com/news/orange/a-chapel-hill-venture-capitalist-is-betting-the-farm-on-muscadine-grapes-katahdin-sheep-and-100000-red-wiggler-worms/
A Chapel Hill Venture Capitalist is Betting the Farm on Muscadine Grapes,
Katahdin Sheep, and 100,000 Red Wiggler Worms
Greg Bohlen is counting on a new strain of muscadine grape, paired with
regenerative farming techniques, to yield profits and usher in a public
health revolution.
by Ted Vaden
11/15/2023

For nearly 60 years, visitors to Orange County's Dairyland Road admired the
hilltop dairy farm that gave the road its name. Maple View Farm was an
iconic feature of the landscape, its adjoining ice cream store a must-see,
must-taste attraction. Dairyland's rolling hills and long vistas make it a
popular bicycling route in midland North Carolina.

But today the view has changed. As visitors settle into rocking chairs with
their butter pecan, they see not the familiar Holstein cattle grazing the
meadows but instead a grid of grape vineyards stretching toward the
horizon. The Maple View silo standing sentinel over the fields now bears
the name Union Grove Farm, heralding a new and innovative era in the
dairyscape.

In 2021, a venture capital entrepreneur bought Maple View, with a vision of
planting its fields with tens of thousands of grapevines. Greg Bohlen is
planting 1,000 acres in muscadines, a native Southern grape that advocates
acclaim as a nutrient-dense "superfood" with health benefits ranging from
better nutrition to cancer treatment. With the help of a local grape
breeder, Bohlen has developed a new strain of muscadine that is seedless,
thin-skinned, and sweeter.

"We are going to change the world," says Bohlen, who has literally bet the
farm—tens of millions of dollars from his VC earnings—on turning Union
Grove Farm into a major food producer and demonstration laboratory for new
agricultural technology.

Bohlen is a nationally recognized starter and seller of businesses, whose
successes include the meat-substitute company Beyond Meat and Hero Bread, a
low-carb bakery.

"I am convinced that if I have a legacy, it will be tied to the farm and
not to my venture capital work," he says. "My companies have changed a lot
of things in the landscape of the world, but this is literally the first
company I've had that can do exceedingly well by doing good."

Bohlen is planting muscadines using advanced agricultural technology called
regenerative farming. It is a process that eschews fertilizers and
pesticides in favor of nutrient-enriched soil to revive fields exhausted by
decades of erosion and chemical poisoning. His tools are not tillers and
chemicals but sheep and red wiggler worms, tens of thousands of them.

This year, Union Grove planted 20 acres of vines and will add 50 more next
year, toward the goal of 1,000 over 10 years. Bohlen aims to make the Union
Grove grape a moneymaker for his portfolio, but his vision is a public
health revolution.

"If they are successful, I will say they will be the biggest vineyard in
the Southeast," says Mart Bumgarner, North Carolina Agriculture Extension
Agent for Orange County. "It's phenomenal that they're bringing this to
Orange County."

Bumgarner and other farming experts say Union Grove still has a lot to
prove to reach that potential. It needs to show both that its new muscadine
strain can attract a broader consumer market than traditional muscadines
and that regenerative farming—an expensive investment even for a venture
capitalist—is worth the cost. It faces some resistance from traditional
farmers and the vested interests of the farm world—lenders, property
owners, and farm supply companies.

There also are questions, faced by any farmer, about environmental threats,
insect infestation, and the food safety of a new product. "We do not know
what diseases could get them, we do not know about the management system of
those grapes at this point in time. And we won't for a very long time,
because there is a limited supply of those grapes," says Mark Hoffman, an
NC State University agriculture professor who specializes in grapes and
other small fruits.

Bohlen and his team have heard the skepticism, but they are plowing ahead
with a combination of science and field work. They have planted 8,000 vines
so far, with a plan to add 30,000 more each year up to 400,000 plants by
2030.

Bohlen's new strain of muscadine was developed by Hillsborough grape
breeder Jeff Bloodworth, a former NCSU grape expert. Test-planting 1,800
varieties, Bloodworth developed a seedless, thin-skinned hybrid to supplant
the pulpy, hard-husked muscadine traditionally grown in North Carolina. The
new grape, by many accounts, is delicious.

"Oh my god, have you tasted it?" asks Bumgarner, the extension agent. "It's
a cross between a muscadine and a table grape, and the taste is
phenomenal."

Bloodworth's first generation of fruit, called Razzmatazz, is sold now in
Weaver Street Market, Food Lion, and other retailers. He and Bohlen
developed a relationship after Bohlen began acquiring land near
Hillsborough. Bloodworth has patents on the new strain, and Bohlen controls
the marketing rights.

The muscadine is considered a nutritional food because it is high in
polyphenols, which impart health-improving antioxidants. "These are the
reasons your mother told you to eat your fruits and vegetables, to get
these dietary polyphenols," says Wake Forest University medical school
researcher Patricia Gallagher, who is leading a $20 million study of the
health benefits of muscadines. Early results show reductions in tumor
growth in prostate and breast cancer.

Bohlen is not yet claiming cancer-reduction properties, but he is pinning
his hopes on his grape's health benefits.

"It's important for a society that continues to be overweight and a society
that tends toward pharmaceuticals instead of looking for their food to heal
them," he says. "That's our goal, to feed people in a way that makes them
healthier, not less healthy."

Mary Ann Lila, professor of food and nutrition at NCSU, says the muscadine
goes beyond being just a nutritious food. As part of a regular diet, she
says, the grapes can protect against chronic diseases like cancer,
cardiovascular disease, diabetes, arthritis, and even cognitive decline.

"The thing that's so interesting about muscadines, unlike table grapes, is
they are not heavily bred, but they are so close to nature," says Lila, who
directs NCSU's Plants for Human Health Institute. "They're natural and
they're naturally evolved to the Southeastern environment. They're tough,
they're very resilient to the insults the environment can impose, and
because of that they are a repository for health-protective compounds."

The uniqueness of the grape is one of Bohlen's competitive strategies. The
other is the regenerative farming process used to grow it. Regenerative
farming aims to rehabilitate fields exhausted by erosion and traditional
farming practices by building new nutrient-rich soil. The process avoids
chemicals and tilling, instead keeping fields planted in cover crops and
infusing them with a compost cocktail generated in Union Grove's
vermiculture lab.

The facility collects tons of debris and food scraps to feed into bins of
more than 100,000 red wiggler worms, which digest the scraps and poop out a
nutrient-rich compost. A compost tea then is sprayed onto fields of cover
crop, building up new layers of high-nutrient soil. Instead of using
tractors and mowers, the farm maintains the land using 250 Katahdin sheep
that simultaneously graze cover crops and fertilize the fields, priming
them for later grape planting.

Bohlen says regenerative farming not only rebuilds the soil but also
recaptures carbon from the atmosphere. "For every 1 percent of soil organic
matter we build, we're taking 8.5 tons of carbon out of the air," he says.
"Imagine how the soil that has been for generations depleted by tobacco
would respond if it instead built up an inch of topsoil a year, what that
would do to our productive agricultural land in North Carolina."

Regenerative practices date back to Indigenous populations, but the concept
has taken off in recent decades as a movement to reverse climate change and
address world hunger. It was spotlighted at the World Economic Forum in
2022 and adopted as policy by the Biden administration, which is investing
funding to incentivize farmers to adopt sustainable practices.

Bohlen and his team are trying to spread the regenerative gospel to
traditional farmers and to that end have set up the Center for Regenerative
Agriculture at Union Grove to showcase the practices. But they have run
into indifference, if not skepticism.

"The main challenge we face is going to be the farmer—the small and medium
size, the ones that are going out of business," says Martin Crompton,
Bohlen's vineyard director. "Ninety percent of them are not making money
from farming anymore. What regenerative farming will offer them, if they
will open their minds to it, is an opportunity to not just make money from
farming but enjoy farming again and encourage their sons and daughters to
come in behind them.

"If they don't, what we are going to see in North Carolina is out of the 8
million acres currently that we've got for farms, a million will be lost in
the next 10 years to development."

Crompton and Bohlen have tried to set up a meeting with state agriculture
commissioner Steve Troxler, but so far that has not panned out. Troxler,
through a spokesperson, twice declined interviews for this story.

Hoffman, the NCSU grape specialist, says Union Grove's new grape looks
promising, but regenerative farming could be a tough sell to traditional
farmers. "If there is no economic incentive, I don't see a fresh-market
grower changing their practices," he says. "They have to show you can make
a profit with that approach."

Bohlen says he is absolutely in the grape business to make a profit. "It
takes about $100,000 an acre to get grape production," he says. "We
generate about $40,000 a year in gross revenue, once we're up and running.
That's a 25 percent IRR [internal rate of return]. I'm pretty happy making
a 25 percent IRR."

Still, Bohlen admits to concerns. "There are a lot of things that worry
me," he says. "Can my team do this? … I worry about the money. What happens
if I can't keep loading the machine? I worry about the unknowns: Zero
degrees for three days. What would a year of insects do?"

Other possible issues: Hoffman says grape supply could be an obstacle to
mass marketing, since Bloodworth currently is the only producer of the new
muscadine strain. Bloodworth says he can easily ramp up production.

Lila, the NCSU researcher, says a highly bred variant like Bloodworth's may
not confer as much health benefit as a natural muscadine. But she says
regenerative practices would help.

Bohlen says the greater concern is what happens to the global environment
if food production practices don't change. "The challenge for me, as I see
it, is we're running out of time. First of all, we're going to be carbon
bound; [global] temperature is going to increase. Second, our soils are
losing efficacy and ability every single year, making it more difficult to
make the transition."

He adds, "I think my team is going to be able to pull it off. Look at those
vines. Look at how green they are. Look how much bigger the vines get. I'm
willing to embarrass myself by talking about it at this point."

*Ted Vaden was a reporter and editor with the Raleigh* News & Observer* for
32 years. Now retired in Chapel Hill, he is president of the NC Press
Foundation, which supports open government and citizens' access to public
records.*
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Monday, November 13, 2023

Re: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees

Water thoroughly until the ground freezes!


On Monday, November 13, 2023 at 09:14:59 AM CST, Henry via NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:

I am in Minnesota and November is a recommended time to transplant dormant trees.

--Henry Fieldseth
Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA, zone 4


    On Monday, November 13, 2023 at 07:52:09 AM CST, Elizabeth Hilborn via NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote: 

Congratulations on your grafting success! Grafting is a great skill to
master.

I commonly plant fruit trees in November in central NC. They will
appreciate a generous topping of mulch after you set them in place. Be
sure and protect from deer, and set a protective vole/rabbit collar at
the base--winter is prime time for small vertebrate damage.

Elizabeth

On 11/13/2023 8:25 AM, Scott Weber and Muffy Barrett wrote:
> That depends on where you are. I'm in central WI & only move stuff in the spring because I'm not confident that they'll get established before the ground freezes. In areas where it doesn't freeze so deeply you are fine moving it in the fall. That will help to avoid the spring time crunch.
> Muffy Barrett
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
>
> I successfully grafted (first successes ever!) some young apple trees in spring 2022, and some more in spring 2023. They’ve been growing happily in a nursery bed. I’d like to move them to permanent locations. May I do that in fall, after they’re dormant, or should I wait till spring?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Jacquelyn Kuehn
> jakuehn@verizon.net
>
>> __________________
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>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 260, Issue 1
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--
Elizabeth Hilborn, DVM
Bee Well Mobile Veterinary Services, PLLC
beewellvet.com

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Re: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees

I am in Minnesota and November is a recommended time to transplant dormant trees.

--Henry Fieldseth
Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA, zone 4


On Monday, November 13, 2023 at 07:52:09 AM CST, Elizabeth Hilborn via NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:

Congratulations on your grafting success! Grafting is a great skill to
master.

I commonly plant fruit trees in November in central NC. They will
appreciate a generous topping of mulch after you set them in place. Be
sure and protect from deer, and set a protective vole/rabbit collar at
the base--winter is prime time for small vertebrate damage.

Elizabeth

On 11/13/2023 8:25 AM, Scott Weber and Muffy Barrett wrote:
> That depends on where you are. I'm in central WI & only move stuff in the spring because I'm not confident that they'll get established before the ground freezes. In areas where it doesn't freeze so deeply you are fine moving it in the fall. That will help to avoid the spring time crunch.
> Muffy Barrett
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
>
> I successfully grafted (first successes ever!) some young apple trees in spring 2022, and some more in spring 2023. They’ve been growing happily in a nursery bed. I’d like to move them to permanent locations. May I do that in fall, after they’re dormant, or should I wait till spring?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Jacquelyn Kuehn
> jakuehn@verizon.net
>
>> __________________
>> NAFEX mailing list
>> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
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>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 260, Issue 1
>> *************************************
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--
Elizabeth Hilborn, DVM
Bee Well Mobile Veterinary Services, PLLC
beewellvet.com

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Re: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees

Congratulations on your grafting success! Grafting is a great skill to
master.

I commonly plant fruit trees in November in central NC. They will
appreciate a generous topping of mulch after you set them in place. Be
sure and protect from deer, and set a protective vole/rabbit collar at
the base--winter is prime time for small vertebrate damage.

Elizabeth

On 11/13/2023 8:25 AM, Scott Weber and Muffy Barrett wrote:
> That depends on where you are. I'm in central WI & only move stuff in the spring because I'm not confident that they'll get established before the ground freezes. In areas where it doesn't freeze so deeply you are fine moving it in the fall. That will help to avoid the spring time crunch.
> Muffy Barrett
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
>
> I successfully grafted (first successes ever!) some young apple trees in spring 2022, and some more in spring 2023. They’ve been growing happily in a nursery bed. I’d like to move them to permanent locations. May I do that in fall, after they’re dormant, or should I wait till spring?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Jacquelyn Kuehn
> jakuehn@verizon.net
>
>> __________________
>> NAFEX mailing list
>> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
>> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 260, Issue 1
>> *************************************
> __________________
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> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
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--
Elizabeth Hilborn, DVM
Bee Well Mobile Veterinary Services, PLLC
beewellvet.com

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Re: [NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees

That depends on where you are. I'm in central WI & only move stuff in the spring because I'm not confident that they'll get established before the ground freezes. In areas where it doesn't freeze so deeply you are fine moving it in the fall. That will help to avoid the spring time crunch.
Muffy Barrett

---------- Original Message ----------

I successfully grafted (first successes ever!) some young apple trees in spring 2022, and some more in spring 2023. They’ve been growing happily in a nursery bed. I’d like to move them to permanent locations. May I do that in fall, after they’re dormant, or should I wait till spring?

Thanks.


Jacquelyn Kuehn
jakuehn@verizon.net

>
> __________________
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> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 260, Issue 1
> *************************************

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[NAFEX] transplanting young apple trees

I successfully grafted (first successes ever!) some young apple trees in spring 2022, and some more in spring 2023. They've been growing happily in a nursery bed. I'd like to move them to permanent locations. May I do that in fall, after they're dormant, or should I wait till spring?

Thanks.


Jacquelyn Kuehn
jakuehn@verizon.net

>
> __________________
> NAFEX mailing list
> NAFEX@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of NAFEX Digest, Vol 260, Issue 1
> *************************************

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Wednesday, August 9, 2023

Re: [NAFEX] grape cuttings

i can send you some in fall or winter.

Lee

> On Aug 8, 2023, at 5:18 PM, Henry via NAFEX <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have cuttings of 'Briana'?
>
> --Henry Fieldseth
> Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA, Zone 4
> http://www.FriendsSchoolPlantSale.com
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Tuesday, August 8, 2023

Re: [NAFEX] grape cuttings

I don't know how many you are looking for. I have one vine, and might be able to get a half doz. cuttings from it.
Muffy Barrett, Baraboo, WI.
---------- Original Message ----------

Does anyone have cuttings of 'Briana'?

--Henry Fieldseth
Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA, Zone 4
http://www.FriendsSchoolPlantSale.com
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[NAFEX] grape cuttings

Does anyone have cuttings of 'Briana'?

--Henry Fieldseth
Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA, Zone 4
http://www.FriendsSchoolPlantSale.com
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Tuesday, July 25, 2023

Re: [NAFEX] Bush cherry suckers

I assume you mean suckers coming up at some distance from the bush.  I have lots of those coming up
in my yard from my Carmine Jewels.  Pretty annoying really.  I'm going to have to go out soon and
mow the cherries...

I would think that these are clones of the original plant so just dig it up and transplant it, I
would think.

On 7/24/2023 9:42 AM, Jay Cutts wrote:
> I have a Carmine Jewel that has been producing a lot of good fruit.
>
> The plant is sending up quite a number of suckers.
>
> Is it ok to let the suckers grow and develop into a stand or is it better for fruit production to
> remove the suckers (and hopefully replant them, as this particular CJ seems to have some better
> qualities)?
>
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Monday, July 24, 2023

Re: [NAFEX] Bush cherry suckers

My carmine jewel has been sending up suckers, but they are 8-15 feet from the parent tree, not near the base.

On July 24, 2023 3:43:53 PM EDT, "Bors, Bob" <bob.bors@usask.ca> wrote:
>Hi Jay,
>
>Assuming it is on its own roots (which it should be) it is best to let suckers grow up. They will eventually replace the original trunk when it needs to be replaced. But you can also use them to make a wider bush than you currently have.
>Older trunks eventually become unproductive with many 'blind branches' and are more susceptible to winter damage. Cherry trees either have buds that make fruit or leaves, not both.
>After years of production you can get 4ft long branches with no leaves along most of it with a tuft of a dozen leaves or so at the end. That's because those branches had made fruits or flowers and are incapable of generating leaves on side shoots.
>
>When we had severe cold (-50C) it was the oldest trunks on our bushes that died on almost every bush. But because we had multi-trunk bushes we didn't lose a single bush. Younger trunks and branches survived.
>
>Cheers,
>
>
>Dr. Bob Bors
>Assistant Professor
>Head of the Fruit Program
>Dept of Plant Sciences
>University of Saskatchewan
>51 Campus Drive
>Saskatoon, Saskatchewan S7N 5A8
>Canada
>http://www.fruit.usask.ca/
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: NAFEX <nafex-bounces+bob.bors=usask.ca@lists.ibiblio.org> On Behalf Of Jay Cutts
>Sent: Monday, July 24, 2023 8:42 AM
>To: Nafex <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>Subject: [NAFEX] Bush cherry suckers
>
>CAUTION: External to USask. Verify sender and use caution with links and attachments. Forward suspicious emails to phishing@usask.ca
>
>
>I have a Carmine Jewel that has been producing a lot of good fruit.
>
>The plant is sending up quite a number of suckers.
>
>Is it ok to let the suckers grow and develop into a stand or is it better for fruit production to remove the suckers (and hopefully replant them, as this particular CJ seems to have some better qualities)?
>
>--
>
>Regards,
>
>Jay
>
>Jay Cutts
>Director, Cutts Graduate Reviews
>Author, Barron's LSAT Prep Book, now published
> as the Cognella LSAT Roadmap
>Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Prep Book
>Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Flash Cards
>(505) 281-0684 (landline, no texts)
>(505) 717-6394 (cell, text or voicemail)
>10 am to 10 pm Mt Time, 7 days
>
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--
Ginda

Typed with swype. Who knows what i intended to say?
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Re: [NAFEX] Bush cherry suckers

Hi Jay,

Assuming it is on its own roots (which it should be) it is best to let suckers grow up. They will eventually replace the original trunk when it needs to be replaced. But you can also use them to make a wider bush than you currently have.
Older trunks eventually become unproductive with many 'blind branches' and are more susceptible to winter damage. Cherry trees either have buds that make fruit or leaves, not both.
After years of production you can get 4ft long branches with no leaves along most of it with a tuft of a dozen leaves or so at the end. That's because those branches had made fruits or flowers and are incapable of generating leaves on side shoots.

When we had severe cold (-50C) it was the oldest trunks on our bushes that died on almost every bush. But because we had multi-trunk bushes we didn't lose a single bush. Younger trunks and branches survived.

Cheers,


Dr. Bob Bors
Assistant Professor
Head of the Fruit Program
Dept of Plant Sciences
University of Saskatchewan
51 Campus Drive
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan S7N 5A8
Canada
http://www.fruit.usask.ca/



-----Original Message-----
From: NAFEX <nafex-bounces+bob.bors=usask.ca@lists.ibiblio.org> On Behalf Of Jay Cutts
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2023 8:42 AM
To: Nafex <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [NAFEX] Bush cherry suckers

CAUTION: External to USask. Verify sender and use caution with links and attachments. Forward suspicious emails to phishing@usask.ca


I have a Carmine Jewel that has been producing a lot of good fruit.

The plant is sending up quite a number of suckers.

Is it ok to let the suckers grow and develop into a stand or is it better for fruit production to remove the suckers (and hopefully replant them, as this particular CJ seems to have some better qualities)?

--

Regards,

Jay

Jay Cutts
Director, Cutts Graduate Reviews
Author, Barron's LSAT Prep Book, now published
as the Cognella LSAT Roadmap
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Prep Book
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Flash Cards
(505) 281-0684 (landline, no texts)
(505) 717-6394 (cell, text or voicemail)
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[NAFEX] Bush cherry suckers

I have a Carmine Jewel that has been producing a lot of good fruit.

The plant is sending up quite a number of suckers.

Is it ok to let the suckers grow and develop into a stand or is it
better for fruit production to remove the suckers (and hopefully replant
them, as this particular CJ seems to have some better qualities)?

--

Regards,

Jay

Jay Cutts
Director, Cutts Graduate Reviews
Author, Barron's LSAT Prep Book, now published
as the Cognella LSAT Roadmap
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Prep Book
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Flash Cards
(505) 281-0684 (landline, no texts)
(505) 717-6394 (cell, text or voicemail)
10 am to 10 pm Mt Time, 7 days

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Tuesday, June 13, 2023

[NAFEX] change of email address

My new email address is eric.arbres.fruitiers@gmail.com
The one I am using now will be no more active in few days
Éric de Lorimier

Pépinière Aux Arbres Fruitiers [1]
_Faites de ce monde un monde meilleur. Plantez des arbres fruitiers!_

Links:
------
[1] http://www.arbres-fruitiers.ca

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Wednesday, March 29, 2023

[nafex] Hazelnut Compatibility Questions

I just bought 4 HazelNut trees before learning about self-Incompatibility
Alleles.

From what I have dug up:

York S2 and S21 (only S21 is expressed in Pollen)

Somerset S3 and S10 (S3 is expressed in Pollen)

Hunterdon S1 and S3 (S3 is expressed in Pollen)

Raritan S3 and S22 (S3 is expressed in Pollen)
Will these be able to cross pollinate and provide nuts if I grow them close
together (10 foot)?
Will the seeds express the same alleles (expressed or not) or will
compatibility be determined over time?

Thank you
Dennis
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Tuesday, March 21, 2023

Re: [nafex] 10-10-10 for Ribes (Potassium SULFATE)

Peter

Potasium sulfate is a very high dollar input. I doubt it is in many standard 10-10-10 blends. I usually buy it separately. I have seen it listed on organic or more natural based products like Espoma.

Mark

> On Mar 20, 2023, at 4:19 PM, Lee Reich <leeareich@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Wood ash
>
> Lee
> Lee Reich, PhD
> Come visit my farmden at
> http://www.leereich.com/blog
> http://leereich.com
>
> Books by Lee Reich:
> •The Ever Curious Gardener: Using a Little Natural Science for a Much Better Garden
> •A Northeast Gardener's Year
> •The Pruning Book
> •Weedless Gardening
> •Uncommon Fruits for every Garden
> •Landscaping with Fruit
> •Grow Fruit Naturally
> •Growing Figs in Cold Climates
> • Fruit: From the USDA Pomological Watercolor Collection (Tiny Folio)
>
>> On Mar 20, 2023, at 3:54 PM, Peter Chrisbacher <pxbacher@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Greetings All -
>>
>> Every reasonably priced, locally available 10-10-10 fertilizer I have found
>> with my keyboard appears to contain muriate of potash rather than potassium
>> sulfate as its K source. Muriate of potash is identified by many sources
>> as "bad for ribes."
>>
>> Can anyone recommend and identify a source of a good, available, and
>> reasonably priced 10-10-10 that contains potassium sulfate instead of
>> muriate of potash?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> -Pete
>>
>> Pete Chrisbacher
>> __________________
>> nafex mailing list
>> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
>> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
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Monday, March 20, 2023

Re: [nafex] 10-10-10 for Ribes (Potassium SULFATE)

Wood ash

Lee
Lee Reich, PhD
Come visit my farmden at
http://www.leereich.com/blog
http://leereich.com

Books by Lee Reich:
•The Ever Curious Gardener: Using a Little Natural Science for a Much Better Garden
•A Northeast Gardener's Year
•The Pruning Book
•Weedless Gardening
•Uncommon Fruits for every Garden
•Landscaping with Fruit
•Grow Fruit Naturally
•Growing Figs in Cold Climates
• Fruit: From the USDA Pomological Watercolor Collection (Tiny Folio)

> On Mar 20, 2023, at 3:54 PM, Peter Chrisbacher <pxbacher@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Greetings All -
>
> Every reasonably priced, locally available 10-10-10 fertilizer I have found
> with my keyboard appears to contain muriate of potash rather than potassium
> sulfate as its K source. Muriate of potash is identified by many sources
> as "bad for ribes."
>
> Can anyone recommend and identify a source of a good, available, and
> reasonably priced 10-10-10 that contains potassium sulfate instead of
> muriate of potash?
>
> Thanks
>
> -Pete
>
> Pete Chrisbacher
> __________________
> nafex mailing list
> nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex

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[nafex] 10-10-10 for Ribes (Potassium SULFATE)

Greetings All -

Every reasonably priced, locally available 10-10-10 fertilizer I have found
with my keyboard appears to contain muriate of potash rather than potassium
sulfate as its K source. Muriate of potash is identified by many sources
as "bad for ribes."

Can anyone recommend and identify a source of a good, available, and
reasonably priced 10-10-10 that contains potassium sulfate instead of
muriate of potash?

Thanks

-Pete

Pete Chrisbacher
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Re: [nafex] nafex Digest, Vol 258, Issue 1

Prairie Dawn is H55A
Prairie Gen is F-25
Prairie STAR is H-118
Prairie Sun is A-33

Thank you

Clifford England







Thank you

Kum Hui England
England's Orchard and Nursery
2338 Hwy 2004
McKee , KY. 40447-8342
Specializing in Alternative Crops
www.nuttrees.net
Email: nuttrees@prtcnet.org
Phone # 606-965-2228


-----Original Message-----
From: nafex <nafex-bounces+nuttrees=prtcnet.org@lists.ibiblio.org> On Behalf
Of nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
Sent: 20 March, 2023 09:10
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: nafex Digest, Vol 258, Issue 1

Send nafex mailing list submissions to
nafex@lists.ibiblio.org

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of nafex digest..."


Today's Topics:

1. Re: Prairie series persimmons (Peter Chrisbacher)
2. Prairie series persimmons (Rosholdt)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 22:33:07 -0400
From: Peter Chrisbacher <pxbacher@gmail.com>
To: mailing list at ibiblio - Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
<nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Cc: Devin Smith <dvidedevo@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [nafex] Prairie series persimmons
Message-ID:
<CAPmZpfP023e8z3b-3WBkSLSH8Xbeg7_RC8CZuUCMQ8K_RNF=TQ@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Hi Devin

I do not have the list you are seeking. What I did find when I went back
through my emails was a spreadsheet Jerry shared with me back in 2006
listing all of claypool's varieties including brief descriptive information.

I don't think the spreadsheet contains the information you're after, and I
have to believe Jerry shared later versions of the same spreadsheet with
many others, but let me know if you would like a copy of the version I have
to look through for yourself.

-Pete


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 08:47:36 -0400
From: Rosholdt <rosholdt@erols.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [nafex] Prairie series persimmons
Message-ID: <d7e0cc2b-82aa-107b-4fea-b44981c0ac92@erols.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Devin,

Did you try looking in Pomona?? Members can access the digital archive and
search.? Very powerful.? Also you might check Gary England (England's
Orchard & Nursery) for info about Jerry's stuff.

Barbara Rosholdt

On 3/19/2023 10:05 PM, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:
> Subject:
> [nafex] Prairie series persimmons
> From:
> Devin Smith <dvidedevo@yahoo.com>
> Date:
> 3/19/2023, 10:05 PM
>
> To:
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>
>
> Some years back, before Jerry Lehman?s passing, someone (I?m thinking
Jerry) identified all of the original Claypool varieties that were
eventually trademarked by One Green World as the ?prairie? series
persimmons. I remember making note of it or saving a copy at the time but am
unable to find it. I?ve dug through the archives some, too.?I believe OGW
may be misrepresenting it?s variety ?prairie star? as the Claypool variety
h-118. Cliff England seems to suggest it is h-63A instead. Anyone have this
info anymore?
> Thanks,Devin SmithRockingham, VT
>

------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

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------------------------------

End of nafex Digest, Vol 258, Issue 1
*************************************


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[nafex] Prairie series persimmons

Devin,

Did you try looking in Pomona?  Members can access the digital archive
and search.  Very powerful.  Also you might check Gary England
(England's Orchard & Nursery) for info about Jerry's stuff.

Barbara Rosholdt

On 3/19/2023 10:05 PM, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:
> Subject:
> [nafex] Prairie series persimmons
> From:
> Devin Smith <dvidedevo@yahoo.com>
> Date:
> 3/19/2023, 10:05 PM
>
> To:
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>
>
> Some years back, before Jerry Lehman's passing, someone (I'm thinking Jerry) identified all of the original Claypool varieties that were eventually trademarked by One Green World as the 'prairie' series persimmons. I remember making note of it or saving a copy at the time but am unable to find it. I've dug through the archives some, too. I believe OGW may be misrepresenting it's variety 'prairie star' as the Claypool variety h-118. Cliff England seems to suggest it is h-63A instead. Anyone have this info anymore?
> Thanks,Devin SmithRockingham, VT
>
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Sunday, March 19, 2023

Re: [nafex] Prairie series persimmons

Hi Devin

I do not have the list you are seeking. What I did find when I went back
through my emails was a spreadsheet Jerry shared with me back in 2006
listing all of claypool's varieties including brief descriptive information.

I don't think the spreadsheet contains the information you're after, and I
have to believe Jerry shared later versions of the same spreadsheet with
many others, but let me know if you would like a copy of the version I have
to look through for yourself.

-Pete
__________________
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[nafex] Prairie series persimmons

Some years back, before Jerry Lehman's passing, someone (I'm thinking Jerry) identified all of the original Claypool varieties that were eventually trademarked by One Green World as the 'prairie' series persimmons. I remember making note of it or saving a copy at the time but am unable to find it. I've dug through the archives some, too. I believe OGW may be misrepresenting it's variety 'prairie star' as the Claypool variety h-118. Cliff England seems to suggest it is h-63A instead. Anyone have this info anymore?
Thanks,Devin SmithRockingham, VT
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Wednesday, March 8, 2023

Re: [nafex] Grape stems dead?

Thanks, Devin.

Hard to say what side of the trunk was affected because the entire
bottom is bare. This occurred probably mid-summer.

It's odd to me that it wasn't just damage to one part of the bark but
that the bark was just completely gone as if someone had peeled it off
and up.

Regards,

Jay

Jay Cutts
Director, Cutts Graduate Reviews
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Prep Book
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Flash Cards
Lead Author, Barron's LSAT Prep Book
(505) 281-0684 (landline, no texts)
(505) 717-6394 (cell, text or voicemail)
10 am to 10 pm Mt Time, 7 days

On 3/8/2023 2:53 PM, Devin Smith via nafex wrote:
> I'd suspect southwest injury. Looks pretty textbook to my eye.  Did you have any snow or ice on the ground, and might if correspond with roughly the bottom of the damage? What side was the split facing? If it was S or W, I think you might have your answer. A dilute coat of 1/2 white latex paint / 1/2 water has worked for me to prevent this type of damage.
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 8, 2023, 4:36 PM, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:
>
> Send nafex mailing list submissions to
>     nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>     https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>     nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>     nafex-owner@lists.ibiblio.org
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of nafex digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1.  Grape stems dead? (Jay Cutts)
>   2. Re:  Grape stems dead? (Jay Cutts)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2023 14:17:58 -0700
> From: Jay Cutts <orders@cuttsreviews.com>
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Subject: [nafex] Grape stems dead?
> Message-ID: <19dc74ec-8cc6-4514-1ea7-38c13fff7788@cuttsreviews.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
>
> Folks,
>
> Anyone know what?s eating my grape vines?
>
> I have six vines. Two of them had the issue shown in the photos. The
> bark at the bottom of the vine is gone, leaving a bare stem. The bark
> above that point seems sort of misshapen.
>
> One of the affected plants had leaves that were fine all season but now
> the vine has broken off at the base. The other plant lost its leaves but
> the vine is still attached.
>
> I?ve included some close-ups of the bark.
>
> Please help! Is this animal damage? Sun damage (I?m in New Mexico and
> the sun is quite strong.) Some bacteria or virus? And what do I do?
> Assuming I get some shoots from the roots, are they infected? Is this
> going to get my other grapes??
>
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [nafex] Grape stems dead?

I'd suspect southwest injury. Looks pretty textbook to my eye.  Did you have any snow or ice on the ground, and might if correspond with roughly the bottom of the damage? What side was the split facing? If it was S or W, I think you might have your answer. A dilute coat of 1/2 white latex paint / 1/2 water has worked for me to prevent this type of damage.  


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Wednesday, March 8, 2023, 4:36 PM, nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote:

Send nafex mailing list submissions to
    nafex@lists.ibiblio.org

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
    https://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
    nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org

You can reach the person managing the list at
    nafex-owner@lists.ibiblio.org

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of nafex digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1.  Grape stems dead? (Jay Cutts)
  2. Re:  Grape stems dead? (Jay Cutts)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2023 14:17:58 -0700
From: Jay Cutts <orders@cuttsreviews.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [nafex] Grape stems dead?
Message-ID: <19dc74ec-8cc6-4514-1ea7-38c13fff7788@cuttsreviews.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Folks,

Anyone know what?s eating my grape vines?

I have six vines. Two of them had the issue shown in the photos. The
bark at the bottom of the vine is gone, leaving a bare stem. The bark
above that point seems sort of misshapen.

One of the affected plants had leaves that were fine all season but now
the vine has broken off at the base. The other plant lost its leaves but
the vine is still attached.

I?ve included some close-ups of the bark.

Please help! Is this animal damage? Sun damage (I?m in New Mexico and
the sun is quite strong.) Some bacteria or virus? And what do I do?
Assuming I get some shoots from the roots, are they infected? Is this
going to get my other grapes??


--

Regards,

Jay

Jay Cutts
Director, Cutts Graduate Reviews
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Prep Book
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Flash Cards
Lead Author, Barron's LSAT Prep Book
(505) 281-0684 (landline, no texts)
(505) 717-6394 (cell, text or voicemail)
10 am to 10 pm Mt Time, 7 days


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2023 14:36:03 -0700
From: Jay Cutts <orders@cuttsreviews.com>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: Re: [nafex] Grape stems dead?
Message-ID: <047708ec-7795-528e-10bd-b14d4e6f14ae@cuttsreviews.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Looks like the images didn't carry over.

Here are links to them:

https://www.cuttsreviews.com/grape/grape1.jpg

https://www.cuttsreviews.com/grape/grape2.jpg


https://www.cuttsreviews.com/grape/grape3.jpg

Regards,

Jay

Jay Cutts
Director, Cutts Graduate Reviews
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Prep Book
Lead Author, Barron's MCAT Flash Cards
Lead Author, Barron's LSAT Prep Book
(505) 281-0684 (landline, no texts)
(505) 717-6394 (cell, text or voicemail)
10 am to 10 pm Mt Time, 7 days

On 3/8/2023 2:17 PM, Jay Cutts wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Anyone know what?s eating my grape vines?
>
> I have six vines. Two of them had the issue shown in the photos. The
> bark at the bottom of the vine is gone, leaving a bare stem. The bark
> above that point seems sort of misshapen.
>
> One of the affected plants had leaves that were fine all season but
> now the vine has broken off at the base. The other plant lost its
> leaves but the vine is still attached.
>
> I?ve included some close-ups of the bark.
>
> Please help! Is this animal damage? Sun damage (I?m in New Mexico and
> the sun is quite strong.) Some bacteria or virus? And what do I do?
> Assuming I get some shoots from the roots, are they infected? Is this
> going to get my other grapes??
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

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------------------------------

End of nafex Digest, Vol 256, Issue 1
*************************************

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